The news
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
06/11/2016 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert frees Kein Licht kein Schatten in Ötztal, Austria In Ötztal, Austria, Jakob Schubert ha made the first ascent of 'Kein Licht kein Schatten' a 9a sports climb that is now the most difficult in the valley.
05/11/2016 - Climbing
Chris Sharma / 'Perfecto Mundo' project at Margalef The video of American climber Chris Sharma attempting 'Perfecto Mundo' a possible 9b+ project at Margalef, Spain.
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan From 5 to 20 October 2016 Marek Raganowicz made what is believed to be only the second solo ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster, the A5 aid climb put up in 1991 by Eric Kohl on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea The World Bouldering Champion Petra Klingler from Switzerland reports about her recent travels to South Korea where she took part in the first Mudeungsan Bouldering Festival.
04/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites In October 2015 on Torre Argentina in the Vallaccia group (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) the brothers Enrico Geremia and Nicolò Geremia made the first ascent of 'Via dei Balotini', a new rock climb to the right of Via Maffei - Frizzera.
03/11/2016 - Alpinism
Christoph Hainz makes solo first ascent of Golden Pillar of Ortler On 29/08/2016 Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of 'Golden Pillar of Ortler‘ (max VI+ , 750m) up the SW pillar of Mt. Ortler, at 3905m the highest mountain in the South Tyrol, Italy.
02/11/2016 - Interviews
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview Interview with Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who on 01/11/2016 made the first repeat of Es Pontas, the famous deep water solo climb first ascended a decade ago by Chris Sharma on the island of Mallorca, Spain.
02/11/2016 - Alpinism
L'uomo volante on Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Dolomites On the Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites, Francesco Leardi and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of 'L'uomo volante'. The new rock climb is dedicated to Dario Zanon, an Italian BASE Jumper who died in June 2016 during a jump in the Mont Blanc massif.
01/11/2016 - Climbing
Tom Randall: Obsession The video portrait of British rock climber Tom Randall.
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
31/10/2016 - Climbing
Dai Koyamada, Alexander Megos and Daniel Jung find Frankenjura friction While Alexander Megos has repeated Becoming, a 9a+ sports climb in Germany’s Frankenjura, Daniel Jung and Dai Koyamada have repeated Corona 9a+ nearby.
31/10/2016 - Alpinism
Corsica, Bavella: Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia forge Ro.Ma. up Punta U Corbu On the 'most beautiful and famous big wall in Corsica', i.e. Punta U Corbu at Col de Bavella, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia have completed their 'Ro-Ma Project’ to create the new multi-pitch rock climb Ro.Ma. (180m, 7c max, 7a+ obl). Oviglia provides the details.
30/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders / Sersank Himalaya details and photos The details and photos of the first ascent of Sersank Peak (6100m) in the Indian Himalaya, carried out by British alpinists Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders in alpine style over eight days.
29/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #2 Update about Adam Ondra and developments from the 'Dawn Wall', the big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA, freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2014/2015.
28/10/2016 - Alpinism
Denis Urubko - my alpinism The video portrait of Denis Urubko, one of the strongest Himalayan mountaineers of all times.
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