Hart aber Fair, new multi-pitch rock climb in the Dolomites

Hart aber Fair. Hard but fair. This is the name of the new climb put up by Simon Gietl and Simon Oberbacher on the SW Face of Piz dla Dorada, above the village of Colfosco in Alta Badia, Dolomites, and freed by Gietl on 25 May.

The new route is located between the only other two routes on the face, namely Neolit and Spaßbremse (both established by Gietl between 2014 and 2015) and was forged ground-up over two days in summer 2015. Just like the other two routes, Hart aber Fair is protected by Friends, nuts normal pegs, and there are no bolts.

The first pitch holds the crux, an enormous roof past good rock, after which the difficulties ease off slightly although the rock quality remains good throughout. It is possible to abseil off the penultimate pitch, or from the summit follow the obvious track that leads quickly backdown to the characteristic Edelweiss mountain hut.

Gietl told planetmountain.com: “The name of the route says it all. Hard but fair. Yes, the route’s difficult, but it’s honest. Honest in terms of the difficulties that I’ve suggested, and also honest in terms of the pro: a mix of pegs left in-situ and trad gear. I really recommend this route, just like the others which - according to those who’ve already repeated them - are great fun. The location is a small paradise, almost a secret spot up the Dolomites, where you can climb for many months of the year. Since it’s south facing you can start climbing early in the season, from March or April, and last year we climbed all the way through to December."


TOPO: Hart aber Fair, Piz dla Dorada, Dolomites