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New rock climb in Valle dell' Orco
09/08/2013 - Climbing
New rock climb in Valle dell' Orco
Maurizio Oviglia introduces Rataplan (175m, 7a+ max (6b obligatory) /RS2/I), a new multi-pitch climb first ascended together with Damiano Ceresa on 1 August and freed a few days later with with Cecilia Marchi up the Parete della Grande Ala, Chiapili...
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
08/08/2013 - Alpinism
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
The story of the recent repeat of Divine Providence by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire. Established in 1984 by French alpinists Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny and graded ABO, Divine Providence up the Gran Pilier d'Angle was freed in...
Mysterious Dolomites:  Ivo Ferrari and the climb Gianni Ribaldone on Spiz di Mezzo
05/08/2013 - Alpinism
Mysterious Dolomites: Ivo Ferrari and the climb Gianni Ribaldone on Spiz di Mezzo
Ivo Ferrari and the route Gianni Ribaldone, established on Spiz di Mezzo in the Zoldo Dolomites by H. Steinkötter and A. Mazzenga.
The Sunflower of the Dolomites: Ivo Ferrari and the Pilastro Girasole on Cimòn della Pala
01/08/2013 - Alpinism
The Sunflower of the Dolomites: Ivo Ferrari and the Pilastro Girasole on Cimòn della Pala
Ivo Ferrari and Pilastro Girasole, the route first climbed in 1986 by Renzo and Giacomo Corona up the SW Face of Cimon della Pala, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.
Valsesia - pasture portraits. Interview with the author Lorenzo Di Nozzi
30/07/2013 - Book-press
Valsesia - pasture portraits. Interview with the author Lorenzo Di Nozzi
Interview with Lorenzo Di Nozzi, the author of Valsesia - pasture portraits, a book of photographs that documents the two-year journey with the shepherds high up in the Sesia Valley (Monte Rosa).
La Perla Nascosta on Sass On Ortiga by Ivo Ferrari
29/07/2013 - Alpinism
La Perla Nascosta on Sass On Ortiga by Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and the beautiful rock climb La Perla nascosta (500m, TD) first ascended in 1972 by Renzo Timillero and Ludovico Cappellari up the North Face of the Sass d'Ortiga (Val Canali, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). A real hidden...
Lisetta, new rock climb up Col dei Bos in the Dolomites
26/07/2013 - Climbing
Lisetta, new rock climb up Col dei Bos in the Dolomites
Last July Andrea Simonini, Giacomo Duzzi and Lorenzo Moretto made the ground-up first ascent of "Lisetta" (250m, IX-, 7b+) up Col dei Bos, Fanis, Dolomites.
Luca Pandolfi and the Sentinel Rouge Couloir on Mont Blanc
Luca Pandolfi and the Sentinel Rouge Couloir on Mont Blanc
Luca Pandolfi talks about his descent of Grand Couloir of Sentinelle Rouge, carried out with Ben Briggs and Tom Grant on 5 July 2013.
Diamante pazzo on Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, by Ivo Ferrari
24/07/2013 - Alpinism
Diamante pazzo on Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, by Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and diamonds are forever. On via Diamante pazzo (250m, 6a+) the beautiful route established in 1984 by Roberto Perucca and Rinaldo Sartore up the East Face of Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, Gran Paradiso, Italy. With a text by...
Via del Guerriero, new multi-pitch climb in the Gola del Limarò, Arco
17/07/2013 - Climbing
Via del Guerriero, new multi-pitch climb in the Gola del Limarò, Arco
In June Francesco Salvaterra and Nicola Binelli made the first ascent of Via del Guerriero (VI+/VIII-/A2 R3), a new route in the Gola del Limarò close to Arco, Trentino - Alto Adige.
Beauty and the Beast, first ascent on Alaska's Gargoyle
10/07/2013 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast, first ascent on Alaska's Gargoyle
In Alaska's Ruth Gorge the Austrians Alex Bluemel and Gerry Fiegl have made the first ascent of Beauty and the Beast (7a+ 650m A3) on the Gargoyle. Shortly afterwards the two Tyrolean mountaineers made the first repeat of the long...
Alpinists who make the difference: via Stenghel at Torre d'Ambiez by Ivo Ferrari
09/07/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinists who make the difference: via Stenghel at Torre d'Ambiez by Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and the route first ascended by Giuliano Stenghel and Valentino Chini up Torre d'Ambiez (Brenta Dolomites). Or, put in other words, alpinists who make the difference.
Alta Val Masino and Venti Polari di Ivo Ferrari
01/07/2013 - Alpinism
Alta Val Masino and Venti Polari di Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and the rock climb Venti Polari, established up Punta Morasachini by Giuseppe "Popi" Miotti, Guido Merizzi and Federico Madonna.
Argento vivo up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites
25/06/2013 - Alpinism
Argento vivo up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites
From 12 - 15 May Stefano Angelini, Alessandro Beber and Fabrizio Dellai established Argento vivo, a new ice and mixed route up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites. Alessandro Beber provides the details.
Jeef, the route and the beauty of climbing in Bavella, Corsica
13/06/2013 - Climbing
Jeef, the route and the beauty of climbing in Bavella, Corsica
In praise of climbing and nature's beauty. This is Jeef, the route first ascended in 1992 by the French brothers François & Arnaud Petit on Punta U Corbu in Bavella (Corsica). A small masterpiece, examined by Maurizio Oviglia and Arnaud...
Strike! the incredible route at Perda asub 'e pari in Sardinia
10/06/2013 - Climbing
Strike! the incredible route at Perda asub 'e pari in Sardinia
On 31 May 2013, 33 years after its first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia and Corrado Pibiri completed this historic route in southern Sardinia. Originally three pitches long, the route now offers six (plus two traverses) to reach the top of beautiful...

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