New climb on Dente di Mezzaluna, Valgerola
The conglomerate outcrops offer numerous splendid lines and the spur they chose is particlarly beautiful. The climbers left a few pegs in-situ as well as a nut, those who wish to repeat the route will have to take a trad rack and some pegs to equip the belays.
The spur hosts two other routes established during the '50's but rarely repeated nowadays (Paltrineri - Del Nero, included in the guidebook CAI Bergamo Orobie: 88 immagini per arrampicare). Furthermore, close to Lake Piazzotti there are 30 bolted climbs graded IV - 6b (10 minutes from the hut), the classic Via Francesca up the Piazzotti bastion (250m, V+, 20 minutes from the hut) and of course the Denti della Vecchia peak with 12 bolted climbs graded 5a - 6b (45 minutes from the hut).All of these climb excellent quality conglomerate rock.
by Carlo Mazzoleni
TOPO: Ich liebe dich, Dente di Mezzaluna