Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites

The new route is named after the group and was completed on 7 September 2014 after 2 attempts that were hampered by rain. A1 aid was used on the lower section and according to the first ascentionists this will be "certainly very demanding for future free climbing attempts.” Apart from this, difficulties never exceed 6b and the route is fully bolted, including the belays and abseils. The rock is generally excellent except for some short patches that weren't cleaned due to poor weather.

It is worth noting that an old peg belay was found just to the left of the 5th belay. This previous route continues up the vertical face breached by Forza 5. The original in-situ gear was sorted out, 2 bolts were added and the rock was cleaned to render the line more homogeneous. This belay and the line to the top belongs to the beautiful route "Tre Cuori", established on 18 August 2012 by Daniel Rossato and Duilio Portaluri (CAI Castelfranco Veneto). The first ascentionists of Forza 5 only found out about this route after having stumbled across the belay. Tre Cuori starts from the fan-shaped feature to the right of the Mondeval arête (see Alpi Venete - spring-summer 2013).


TOPO: Forza 5, IV Bastione de Mondeval, Dolomites