620 News found

Patrick Gabarrou was born in 1951 close to Paris in France and the routes first climbed by this alpinist, philosopher and mountain guide are integral parts of the history of Mont Blanc. The following interview was carried out by don Daniele D'Elia and Ronald Gumiel during the recent series of...

Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald have established and freed Das Orakel (IX, 320m), a new climb up the North Face of Lagazuoi in the Dolomites.

Maurizio Oviglia introduces Rataplan (175m, 7a+ max (6b obligatory) /RS2/I), a new multi-pitch climb first ascended together with Damiano Ceresa on 1 August and freed a few days later with with Cecilia Marchi up the Parete della Grande Ala, Chiapili di Sotto, Valle dell'Orco in Italy.

The story of the recent repeat of Divine Providence by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire. Established in 1984 by French alpinists Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny and graded ABO, Divine Providence up the Gran Pilier d'Angle was freed in 1990 by Alain Ghersen and Thierry Renault. Even today this...

Ivo Ferrari and the route Gianni Ribaldone, established on Spiz di Mezzo in the Zoldo Dolomites by H. Steinkötter and A. Mazzenga.

Ivo Ferrari and Pilastro Girasole, the route first climbed in 1986 by Renzo and Giacomo Corona up the SW Face of Cimon della Pala, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.

Interview with Lorenzo Di Nozzi, the author of Valsesia - pasture portraits, a book of photographs that documents the two-year journey with the shepherds high up in the Sesia Valley (Monte Rosa).

Ivo Ferrari and the beautiful rock climb La Perla nascosta (500m, TD) first ascended in 1972 by Renzo Timillero and Ludovico Cappellari up the North Face of the Sass d'Ortiga (Val Canali, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). A real hidden gem.

Last July Andrea Simonini, Giacomo Duzzi and Lorenzo Moretto made the ground-up first ascent of "Lisetta" (250m, IX-, 7b+) up Col dei Bos, Fanis, Dolomites.

Luca Pandolfi talks about his descent of Grand Couloir of Sentinelle Rouge, carried out with Ben Briggs and Tom Grant on 5 July 2013.

Ivo Ferrari and diamonds are forever. On via Diamante pazzo (250m, 6a+) the beautiful route established in 1984 by Roberto Perucca and Rinaldo Sartore up the East Face of Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, Gran Paradiso, Italy. With a text by Gianmario Bellini in memory of Roberto Perucca.

In June Francesco Salvaterra and Nicola Binelli made the first ascent of Via del Guerriero (VI+/VIII-/A2 R3), a new route in the Gola del Limarò close to Arco, Trentino - Alto Adige.

In Alaska's Ruth Gorge the Austrians Alex Bluemel and Gerry Fiegl have made the first ascent of Beauty and the Beast (7a+ 650m A3) on the Gargoyle. Shortly afterwards the two Tyrolean mountaineers made the first repeat of the long Tooth Traverse. Gerry Fiegl provides the report.

Ivo Ferrari and the route first ascended by Giuliano Stenghel and Valentino Chini up Torre d'Ambiez (Brenta Dolomites). Or, put in other words, alpinists who make the difference.

Ivo Ferrari and the rock climb Venti Polari, established up Punta Morasachini by Giuseppe "Popi" Miotti, Guido Merizzi and Federico Madonna.

From 12 - 15 May Stefano Angelini, Alessandro Beber and Fabrizio Dellai established Argento vivo, a new ice and mixed route up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites. Alessandro Beber provides the details.