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Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
05/01/2021 - Climbing
Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
American rock climber George Whitmore has died at the age of 89. Together with Wayne Merry and Warren Harding he made the first ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite in 1958.
K2 Winter, Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa join forces at altitude
31/12/2020 - Alpinism
K2 Winter, Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa join forces at altitude
K2 winter update: diverse teams of mountaineers are attempting the first winter ascent of K2, the only 8000er never climbed before in the coldest season. The Nepalese teams led by Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa joined forces at altitude and have fixed ropes almost to Camp 3.
New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath
30/12/2020 - Alpinism
New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath
Climbing with Hamish Frost and Graham McGrath, Greg Boswell has established False Penance, another bold new winter climb to Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian close to Glen Coe in Scotland.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
21/12/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
Earlier this autumn alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer established two new mixed routes, Käse-Greiner and Nordwandrampe, on the north face of Großer Greiner in Austria’s Zillertal Alps.
New mixed climbs on Ralfkopf and Glödis in Austria's Lesachtal
17/12/2020 - Alpinism
New mixed climbs on Ralfkopf and Glödis in Austria's Lesachtal
A series of new mixed climbs have been added to Ralfkopf and Glödis above the Lesachtal valley close to Kals am Großglockner in Austria's East Tyrol by Vittorio Messini, Lukas Pichler, Michael Amraser, Isidor Poppeller and Hans Zlöbl.
Aaron Durogati and Simon Gietl climb & fly Mount Rauchkofel North Face
04/12/2020 - Alpinism
Aaron Durogati and Simon Gietl climb & fly Mount Rauchkofel North Face
On 29/11/2020 Simon Gietl and Aaron Durogati made the first ascent of a new 500m route on the hitherto unclimbed north face of Mount Rauchkofel in the South Tyrol, Italy. After the ascent, the two climbers paraglided back down to valley. Durogati reports about this latest paralpinism adventure.
Brenta Dolomites Campanile Basso West Couloir climbed by Francesco Salvaterra, Piero Onorati
03/12/2020 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites Campanile Basso West Couloir climbed by Francesco Salvaterra, Piero Onorati
A deep couloir is located between the west face of Torrione Comici and the shoulder of Campanile Basso. Uninviting in summer, this gully is an extremely interesting winter. climb. Mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra reports about his 15 November 2020 ascent with Piero Onorati.
Rosengarten Dolomites climb in memory of Andrea Concini
27/11/2020 - Alpinism
Rosengarten Dolomites climb in memory of Andrea Concini
Mountain guide Marco Bozzetta reports about the new multi-pitch rock climb established up Pala di Socorda (Dirupi di Larsec, Rosengarten group, Dolomites) with Giovanni Andriano. The new route is dedicated to Andrea Concini who perished last winter on the north face of Cima Brenta, and with whom Bozzetta had started...
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
22/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
Last August Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher made the first free ascent of Magellan, a 15-year-old project on Urlkopf close to Loferer Alm in Austria. Huber reports.
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
18/11/2020 - Alpinism
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
On 11 November 2020 Martin Feistl and David Bruder made the first repeat and first free ascent of Sagzahnverschneidung, the difficult mixed route in the Valsertal in Austria established in 2018 by David Lama and Peter Mühlberger.
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
16/11/2020 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
On 07/11/2020, just before South Tyrol declared itself in lockdown due to Covid, Simon Gietl and Davide Prandini made the first ascent of Aquädukt (IV, M5 650m), a new mixed climb up the north face of Wasserkopf (3135m) in the Rieserferner group of the Tauern Alps. At 3/4 height the...
Sani Pakkush South Face first ascent by Symon Welfringer, Pierrick Fine
28/10/2020 - Alpinism
Sani Pakkush South Face first ascent by Symon Welfringer, Pierrick Fine
Climbing in alpine style, from 16 - 20 October 2020 French alpinists Symon Welfringer and Pierrick Fine made the first ascent of the virgin South Face of Sani Pakush, a 6951m peak in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Welfringer reports about their important ascent which may well be only the second successful...
Tribe at Cadarese: the James Pearson second ascent interview
26/10/2020 - Interviews
Tribe at Cadarese: the James Pearson second ascent interview
Interview with British rock climber James Pearson after the second ascent of Tribe, the extremely difficult trad climb at Cadarese in Italy first ascended by Jacopo Larcher in 2019
Cadarese Tribe repeated by James Pearson
22/10/2020 - Climbing
Cadarese Tribe repeated by James Pearson
British rock climber James Pearson has made the second ascent of Tribe, the extremely difficult trad climb at Cadarese in Italy first ascended by Jacopo Larcher.
Xylophon added to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites, by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
22/10/2020 - Alpinism
Xylophon added to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites, by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
The climbers belonging to the GAG Val Gardena mountaineering club Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth have established Xylophon, a multi-pitch rock climb up Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites, Italy.

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