Big Fighter climbed on Chaupi Huanca in Peru by Álex González, Jaume Peiró

Spanish climbers Álex González (18) and Jaume Peiró (20) have recently spent 4 days and 3 nights establishing a 750m routeon the 4850m high northern arete of Chaupi Huanca in the Rurec valley in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca. The route takes a line to the left of Qui Io Vado Ancora (Fabio Palma, Andrea Pavan, Simone Pedeferri, 2006) and had been attempted by two previous expeditions, one from Argentina and the other from Ecuador, but neither had been unable to make significant headway.

González and Peiró are currently on a 3-month climbing trip to South America and on entering Peru they acclimatised at Hatun Machay at around 4500m before climbing Esfinge 5235m in Parón via the classic 1985 route. Helped by porters to carry their 70kg of gear the pair then ventured into the Rurec valley before setting their sights on the obvious needle which they summited on 3 July, having breached difficulties up to 8a+? (6c/A2).

The new route has been called Big Fighter, in honour of González’s 15-year-old brother who has been battling against cancer for several year. "A real fighter, this is for him and for all those children who continue to fight every day!"