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Peitlerkofel Dolomites / Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner add new winter climb
02/02/2019 - Alpinism
Peitlerkofel Dolomites / Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner add new winter climb
On 26 January 2019 Italian mountaineers Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner made the first ascent of Kalipe, a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Peitlerkofel / Sass de Putia in the Dolomites.
Pelmoon, new mixed climb up Pelmo North Face in Dolomites
01/02/2019 - Alpinism
Pelmoon, new mixed climb up Pelmo North Face in Dolomites
Enrico Geremia reports about the first ascent of Pelmoon up the North Face of Mt. Pelmo in the Dolomites, established over two days with his brother Daniele Geremia and Fabrizio della Rossa.
Pioneering Patagonia: Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera climb Cerro Mangiafuoco
26/01/2019 - Alpinism
Pioneering Patagonia: Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera climb Cerro Mangiafuoco
In Patagonia the two Ragni di Lecco alpinists Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera have made the first ascent of Cerro Mangiafuoco. The new route is called L'appel du vide (6c M4 400m).
Arco Rock Star / The international climbing photography contest 2019
20/01/2019 - Competitions
Arco Rock Star / The international climbing photography contest 2019
From 10 to 12 May 2019 Arco, Italy will host the Adventure Awards Days and also the fourth international climbing photography contest Arco Rock Star. Professional and amateur photographers
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
Enrico Sasso reports about his 11 December 2018 solo first ascent of Rose (ED, 380m, WI4, M7) a new mixed route up the north face of Marguareis in the Ligurian Alps, Italy.
Agostino Gustin Gazzera, goodbye to the spirit of the mountaineer
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Agostino Gustin Gazzera, goodbye to the spirit of the mountaineer
In memory of Agostino 'Gustin' Gazzera. Born in 1927, the Italian alpinist died on 11 January 2019 after demonstrating a lifetime’s love for the mountains.
Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
14/01/2019 - Alpinism
Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
Tomas Franchini recalls the first ascent of Selvaggia Sorte up Cima Tosa, 3133 m, in the Brenta Dolomites. After a first solo attempt, the mixed climb was established by Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites
11/01/2019 - Alpinism
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites
Brenta Dolomites winter climbing: on 01/01/2018 alpinists Ines Papert and Luka Lindič have made the first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up the west face of Cima Tosa 3133m. The route was first completed by Tomas Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in...
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
Dolomites ice climbing / Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer swing up Sonnentanz in Langental
26/12/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites ice climbing / Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer swing up Sonnentanz in Langental
In Langental / Vallunga Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Sonnentanz (WI5+ M7+ 260m), a mixed climb above Val Gardena, Dolomites.
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
18/12/2018 - Alpinism
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). Ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco...
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
10/12/2018 - Alpinism
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of...
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
Climbing with Tommy Caldwell, on 19 November Sonnie Trotter made the first one day free ascent of a new all free variation to North America Wall / El Nino. The Canadian had discovered the 3-pitch variation, now called Pineapple Express,...
Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson cast their Forge in Scotland
06/12/2018 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson cast their Forge in Scotland
Scottish mountaineers Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson have started their winter climbing season in style with the first ascent of The Forge X/10 at An Teallach in NNW Scotland.
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
26/11/2018 - Alpinism
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
Chris Wright (USA/UK) and Graham Zimmerman (USA/NZ) have made the first ascent of a long, difficult mixed route on the North Face of Mount MacDonald in the Selkirk Mountains in British Columbia, Canada. 1000 meters long, the Indirect American was...
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
22/11/2018 - Alpinism
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
At the end of October 2018 Spanish mountaineers Pablo Ruix (Blín), Jesús Ibarz and Edu Recio established a new route up Langdung (6357 m) above the Rolwaling valley in Nepal. Ibarz reports about their Bihâna (6c+, 1500 m, ED+).

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