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Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler, 40 years ago Everest without supplementary oxygen
08/05/2018 - Alpinism
Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler, 40 years ago Everest without supplementary oxygen
On 8 May 1978 Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler became the first to climb Mount Everest (8848m) without supplemental oxygen. The barrier-breaking undertaking deemed impossible that forever changed Himalayan mountaineering and raised the bar for all future ascents.
Melloblocco in Tour 2018: Cresciano, one of most famous bouldering areas in the world
20/04/2018 - Interviews
Melloblocco in Tour 2018: Cresciano, one of most famous bouldering areas in the world
In the run-up to Melloblocco 2018 that will take place from 3 to 6 May 2018 at Cresciano and Lugano we interviewed Claudio Cameroni, one of the first climbers who helped develop the Swiss bouldering area in the ‘90s in...
Los Picos 6500: 13 Andes summits in 43 days by Franco Nicolini and Franchini brothers
10/04/2018 - Alpinism
Los Picos 6500: 13 Andes summits in 43 days by Franco Nicolini and Franchini brothers
The first part of Los Picos 6500 expedition comprised of Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini has now come to an end. The Italian alpinists have climbed 13 of the 16 highest peaks above 6500 meters in the South...
Michele Boscacci and Axelle Mollaret win Overall Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2018
09/04/2018 - Competitions
Michele Boscacci and Axelle Mollaret win Overall Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2018
The final stage of the Ski Mountaineering World Cup Individual was won on Sunday in the Brenta Dolomites by Robert Antonioli and Laetitia Roux. The Overall World Cup was won by Michele Boscacci and Axelle Mollaret.
Los Picos 6500, seven summits climbed in Andes by Franco Nicolini and Franchini brothers
26/03/2018 - Alpinism
Los Picos 6500, seven summits climbed in Andes by Franco Nicolini and Franchini brothers
The Los Picos 6500 expedition comprised of Italian alpinists Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini continues at a rapid pace and the trio has now climbed 7 of the 16 highest peaks above 6500 meters in the South American...
Matteo Della Bordella talks King Kong up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur in Patagonia, climbed with Silvan Schüpbach
19/03/2018 - Alpinism
Matteo Della Bordella talks King Kong up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur in Patagonia, climbed with Silvan Schüpbach
Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella reports about the first ascent of King Kong, the new mixed climb up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur established last February during a 22-day 'by fair means' climbing expedition with Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach. The two mountaineers travelled...
Wild French rock climbs in Pirrit Hills, Antarctica
13/03/2018 - Alpinism
Wild French rock climbs in Pirrit Hills, Antarctica
In early 2018 a French Groupe Militaire de haute montagne expedition comprised of Arnaud Bayol, Antoine Bletton, Jean-Yves Igonenc, Didier Jourdain, Sébastien Moatti, Dimitry Munoz established a series of new rock climbs in the Pirrit Hills range of Antarctica. Highlights...
European Ski Mountaineering Championships 2018: Robert Antonioli and Axelle Mollaret win Individual Race. All Mt. Etna results
26/02/2018 - Competitions
European Ski Mountaineering Championships 2018: Robert Antonioli and Axelle Mollaret win Individual Race. All Mt. Etna results
The ISMF European ski mountaineering championships took place last week on Mt Etna in Sicily, Italy. Robert Antonioli and Axelle Mollaret won the Individual race, ahead of Michele Boscacci and Laetitia Roux, and Kilian Jornet Burgada and Emelie Forsberg, silver...
Cerro Riso Patron in Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella & Silvan Schüpbach climb new route
25/02/2018 - Alpinism
Cerro Riso Patron in Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella & Silvan Schüpbach climb new route
Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach have forged a new route up Cerro Riso Patron in Patagonia.
Antarctica first ascent / Marek Holeček and Míra Dub battle Bloody Nose up Monte Pizduch
16/02/2018 - Alpinism
Antarctica first ascent / Marek Holeček and Míra Dub battle Bloody Nose up Monte Pizduch
On Winkle Island, Antarctica, Marek Holeček and Míra Dub made the alpine style first ascent of Bloody Nose up the hitherto unclimbed Monte Pizduch located in the Mount Wheat massif. Carried out from 6 - 7 January 2018, the Czech...
12-year-old Oriane Bertone boulders 8B+
10/02/2018 - Climbing
12-year-old Oriane Bertone boulders 8B+
Oriane Bertone, the 12-year-old climber from France’s Réunion Island, has climbed Golden Shadow in Rocklands, South Africa. In doing so she has become the youngest person to climb an 8B+ boulder problem.
Erzurum and the Ice Climbing Festival in Turkey. The report by Anna Torretta
05/02/2018 - Alpinism
Erzurum and the Ice Climbing Festival in Turkey. The report by Anna Torretta
Anna Torretta reports about the Ice Climbing Festival held at Erzurum (Anatolia) in Turkey. Participants included the mountain guide from Courmayeur, Italy and the French mountain guide Jeff Mercier as well as Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord, Jost Kobusch and Raphael...
Nanga Parbat: ordeal ends for Elisabeth Revol!
28/01/2018 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: ordeal ends for Elisabeth Revol!
Elisabeth Revol has been rescued off Nanga Parbat by Adam Bielecki, Denis Urubko, Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala who climbed ceaselessly throughout the night. A helicopter transported the Frenchwoman to Islamabad and she will now return to France for medical...
Dolomites: French winter ascent of Civetta Solleder climb
03/01/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites: French winter ascent of Civetta Solleder climb
Winter mountaineering: an interview with French alpinist Max Bonniot after his repeat of the historic Solleder - Lettenbauer climb up the North-West Face of Mt. Civetta in the Dolomites, carried out together with Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines from 22...
Fabian Buhl highball hattrick at Bishop, USA
22/12/2017 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl highball hattrick at Bishop, USA
At the bouldering area ​​Buttermilks in Bishop, USA, Germany’sFabian Buhl has climbed three difficult highball boulder problems: Ambrosia, Too big to flail and Old Greg.
Gordon McArthur vs Storm Giant, world's first proposed D16 drytooling climb
09/12/2017 - Alpinism
Gordon McArthur vs Storm Giant, world's first proposed D16 drytooling climb
The video of Gordon McArthur climbing his route Storm Giant at Fernie, Canada. Freed last August, this is the first dry tooling climb in the world to receive the grade D16.