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Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory
22/05/2020 - Climbing
Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory
On the famous Aguglia di Goloritzè tower above Cala Goloritzè in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia has rebolted Sole Incantatore, the most repeated multi-pitch rock climb on the island. Oviglia himself established the route in 1995.
Podenzoi, rock climbing in the hanging garden of Longarone. By Sandro Neri
18/05/2020 - Climbing
Podenzoi, rock climbing in the hanging garden of Longarone. By Sandro Neri
Sandro Neri introduces Podenzoi, the historic crag above Longarone (Belluno, Veneto, Italy) discovered in the 1980’s by Gigi Dal Pozzo.
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
08/05/2020 - Interviews
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of...
Rockfall on Dolomites Torre Venezia damages Via Tissi and other classic Civetta climbs
06/05/2020 - Alpinism
Rockfall on Dolomites Torre Venezia damages Via Tissi and other classic Civetta climbs
Serious rockfall took place on the south face of Torre Venezia (Civetta, Dolomites) recently, affecting the historic rock climbs Via Tissi, Gran diedro and Gran Diedro – Diretta.
Alessandro Zeni deciphers Cryptography, 9b slab at Saint Loup in Switzerland
04/05/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni deciphers Cryptography, 9b slab at Saint Loup in Switzerland
On 11 January 2020 Italian climber Alessandro Zeni made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna at the crag Saint Loup in Switzerland. The 28-year-old has put forward the grade 9b, indicating it is...
Rosso 70, online the mountaineering, memories and life of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
09/04/2020 - Alpinism
Rosso 70, online the mountaineering, memories and life of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
Courtesy of the Scoiattoli di Cortina we have published online Rosso 70: Stories and memories of 70 years of alpinism of the Scoiattoli di Cortina. The film by Vinicio Stefanello and Francesco Mansutti retraces the first 70 years of the...
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
06/04/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of Action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays...
Laura Rogora frees Ferentillo Corvo Morto
21/03/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora frees Ferentillo Corvo Morto
On 08/03/2020 18-year-old Roman climber Laura Rogora made the first ascent of Corvo Morto 8c +/9a at Ferentillo (Italy).
Julia Chanourdie sends Super Crackinette 9a+ at St. Léger in France
14/03/2020 - Climbing
Julia Chanourdie sends Super Crackinette 9a+ at St. Léger in France
French climber Julia Chanourdie has climbed her first 9a+, Super Crackinette at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France.
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
05/03/2020 - Interviews
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
Interview with South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl after his solitary winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. From 24 to 25 February the 35-year-old climbed Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima...
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
28/02/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
Austrian mountain guide Albert Leichtfried reports about his first ascent, with Benedikt Purner, of the mixed climb up the Murfrëitturm tower in the Sella group of the Dolomites.
Col du Brouillard SW Couloir, skiing above the lesser known part of the Miage Glacier
Col du Brouillard SW Couloir, skiing above the lesser known part of the Miage Glacier
Davide Capozzi introduces the SW Couloir of Col du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif, recently descended on snowboard and ski with Alessandro Letey. Also referred to as Voie du 1894, in 2016 Capozzi made the first known descent with...
Julien Herry, Yannick Boissenot score new new descent on Aiguille du Peigne in Mont Blanc massif
Julien Herry, Yannick Boissenot score new new descent on Aiguille du Peigne in Mont Blanc massif
On 9 February 2020 Julien Herry and Yannick Boissenot made what is likely to be the first ski and snowboard descent of the Boeuf - Sara couloir on Aiguille du Peigne in the Mont Blanc massif. Herry reports.
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
07/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
While climbing in Northern Patagonia, Swiss mountaineers Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascent of the NE Face of Cerro Cachet . The route has been called Homenaje a los amigos perdidos in memory of David...
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo
05/02/2020 - Alpinism
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo
Spanish mountain guide Santiago Padrós reports about a big new winter climb up Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero (2412m) in the Zoldo Dolomites, established on 30/01/2020 with Diego Toigo. The mixed outing is called Madre Tierra and was completed after a...
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
02/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
On the east face of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia Italian mountain guides Alessandro Baù and Giovanni Zaccaria have made the first ascent of Scrumble de manzana.

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