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Laura Rogora: the second woman to climb 9b interview
28/07/2020 - Interviews
Laura Rogora: the second woman to climb 9b interview
Interview with 19-year old Italian climber Laura Rogora after her repeat at Rodellar in Spain of Ali hulk sit extension total, thanks to which she became the second woman in the world to climb 9b.
Sardinia rock climbing: Aleksandra Taistra repeats big multi-pitches Unchinos and Amico Fragile
21/07/2020 - Climbing
Sardinia rock climbing: Aleksandra Taistra repeats big multi-pitches Unchinos and Amico Fragile
In Sardinia the Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra has repeated two difficult multi-pitches: Unchinos at Badde Pentumas and Amico Fragile at Monte Donneneittu.
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
10/06/2020 - Alpinism
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
On Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper in the Zoldo Dolomites, Daniele Geremia, Santiago Padrós and Fulvio Trentini have made the first ascent of Multicolor (280m, 7a+)
Climbing the Cassin - Ratti on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites. By Carlo Cosi
04/06/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing the Cassin - Ratti on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites. By Carlo Cosi
The historic Cassin - Ratti route the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, established by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti with two bivouacs from 28-30 August 1935, is a landmark in climbing history. Italian Mountain Guide...
Mont Blanc: Edmond Joyeusaz skis Brenva Face Comino-Grassi route
Mont Blanc: Edmond Joyeusaz skis Brenva Face Comino-Grassi route
On Monday 25 May 2020 the Italian mountain guide Edmond Joyeusaz skied from the summit of Mont Blanc down the Comino - Grassi route on the Brenva face, following the line first ascended in 1979 by Gianni Comino and Gian...
Climbing at Valgrisenche: Marco Sappa frees La Fessura di Gianfri at Nid Des Hirondelles
25/05/2020 - Climbing
Climbing at Valgrisenche: Marco Sappa frees La Fessura di Gianfri at Nid Des Hirondelles
Marco Sappa reports about the first ascent of La Fessura di Gianfri, a difficult trad crack climb at the historic crag Nid Des Hirondelles in Valgrisenche, Valle d’Aosta, Italy. The route is dedicated to his father Gianfranco Sappa, a Courmayeur...
Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory
22/05/2020 - Climbing
Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory
On the famous Aguglia di Goloritzè tower above Cala Goloritzè in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia has rebolted Sole Incantatore, the most repeated multi-pitch rock climb on the island. Oviglia himself established the route in 1995.
Podenzoi, rock climbing in the hanging garden of Longarone. By Sandro Neri
18/05/2020 - Climbing
Podenzoi, rock climbing in the hanging garden of Longarone. By Sandro Neri
Sandro Neri introduces Podenzoi, the historic crag above Longarone (Belluno, Veneto, Italy) discovered in the 1980’s by Gigi Dal Pozzo.
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
08/05/2020 - Interviews
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of...
Rockfall on Dolomites Torre Venezia damages Via Tissi and other classic Civetta climbs
06/05/2020 - Alpinism
Rockfall on Dolomites Torre Venezia damages Via Tissi and other classic Civetta climbs
Serious rockfall took place on the south face of Torre Venezia (Civetta, Dolomites) recently, affecting the historic rock climbs Via Tissi, Gran diedro and Gran Diedro – Diretta.
Alessandro Zeni deciphers Cryptography, 9b slab at Saint Loup in Switzerland
04/05/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni deciphers Cryptography, 9b slab at Saint Loup in Switzerland
On 11 January 2020 Italian climber Alessandro Zeni made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna at the crag Saint Loup in Switzerland. The 28-year-old has put forward the grade 9b, indicating it is...
Rosso 70, online the mountaineering, memories and life of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
09/04/2020 - Alpinism
Rosso 70, online the mountaineering, memories and life of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
Courtesy of the Scoiattoli di Cortina we have published online Rosso 70: Stories and memories of 70 years of alpinism of the Scoiattoli di Cortina. The film by Vinicio Stefanello and Francesco Mansutti retraces the first 70 years of the...
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
06/04/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of Action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays...
Laura Rogora frees Ferentillo Corvo Morto
21/03/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora frees Ferentillo Corvo Morto
On 08/03/2020 18-year-old Roman climber Laura Rogora made the first ascent of Corvo Morto 8c +/9a at Ferentillo (Italy).
Julia Chanourdie sends Super Crackinette 9a+ at St. Léger in France
14/03/2020 - Climbing
Julia Chanourdie sends Super Crackinette 9a+ at St. Léger in France
French climber Julia Chanourdie has climbed her first 9a+, Super Crackinette at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France.
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
05/03/2020 - Interviews
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
Interview with South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl after his solitary winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. From 24 to 25 February the 35-year-old climbed Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima...

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