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Chamonix, nothing will ever be the same again
16/07/2024 - Competitions
Chamonix, nothing will ever be the same again
The Lead and Speed​World Cup took place in Chamonix, France, last weekend and was won respectively by Ai Mori and Colin Duffy, and by Zhang Shaoqin and Sam Watson. Fabio Palma reports
Pietro Vidi sends his first 8C+ boulder, Fuck the System at Fionnay, Switzerland
17/06/2024 - Climbing
Pietro Vidi sends his first 8C+ boulder, Fuck the System at Fionnay, Switzerland
The Italian climber Pietro Vidi has sent his first 8C+ boulder problem, 'Fuck the System' at Fionnay in Switzerland.
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
11/06/2024 - Climbing
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
Vangelis Galanis has made a rope solo first ascent of a new multipitch rock climb on Kapelo Peak in Meteora, Greece. The route is dedicated to Dietrich Hasse, the German climber who pioneered rock climbing in the conglomerate area in...
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
On 12/04/2024 Fay Manners and Anna Tybor skied the North East Ramp on Epaule Sallière at Les Marécottes. This is believed to be the first ski descent of this 5.3 line.
Lorenzo Bogliacino frees Trainspotting (9a+) in Val Tanaro, Italy
15/04/2024 - Climbing
Lorenzo Bogliacino frees Trainspotting (9a+) in Val Tanaro, Italy
Italian climber Lorenzo Bogliacino has made the first ascent of 'Trainspotting' (9a) at La Stazione in Val Tanaro, Piedmont, Italy. The 27-year-old reports.
Goulotte Toxic Mushroom added to Mont Noir de Peutérey by Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza, Michele Tixi
13/02/2024 - Alpinism
Goulotte Toxic Mushroom added to Mont Noir de Peutérey by Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza, Michele Tixi
On the east face Mont Noir de Peutérey Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza and Michele Tixi established the mixed route 'Toxic Mushroom'.
Andrea Locatelli establishes Il bombarolo, 8c+ first ascent aged 13 in Italy
28/12/2023 - Climbing
Andrea Locatelli establishes Il bombarolo, 8c+ first ascent aged 13 in Italy
On 24 December 2023 Andrea Locatelli made the first ascent of 'Il bombarolo', a sport climb close to Bergamo in Italy route for which the 13-year-old climber has suggested the grade 8c+.
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
15/12/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
After the first ascent in February 2023, British climber James Pearson has now proposed the grade E12 for Bon Voyage at Annot in France. Currently there is no other trad route of this grade. In this great introspective piece the...
Dai Koyamada frees Okuro, 8C boulder at Mt. Kasagi in Japan
17/10/2023 - Climbing
Dai Koyamada frees Okuro, 8C boulder at Mt. Kasagi in Japan
47-year-old Japanese climber Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of Okuro, an 8C boulder problem at Gifu in Japan.
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
19/08/2023 - Alpinism
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
Remembering Ermanno Salvaterra, the great Italian mountaineer of the Brenta Dolomites and Patagonia, who perished yesterday while climbing on Campanile Alto di Brenta.
Natalia Grossman wins Boulder World Cup 2023, Janja Garnbret faultless first in Innsbruck
16/06/2023 - Competitions
Natalia Grossman wins Boulder World Cup 2023, Janja Garnbret faultless first in Innsbruck
Last night in Innsbruck, Austria, Janja Garnbret from Slovenia won the sixth and final stage of the 2023 Boulder World Cup. Natalia Grossman (USA) placed second, Nonaka Miho (Japan) placed third. For the third year in a row the overall...
Melloblocco 2023: the beauty and essence of bouldering, together
09/05/2023 - Events
Melloblocco 2023: the beauty and essence of bouldering, together
The 16th edition of Melloblocco, the world's biggest bouldering and climbing meeting, came to a close on Sunday in Val Masino - Val di Mello, Italy. 2500 registered climbers underline the success of the event which has no other equals...
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply...
Silvo Karo / Interview with the climbing legend from Slovenia
18/11/2022 - Interviews
Silvo Karo / Interview with the climbing legend from Slovenia
Interview with Slovenian climbing legend Silvo Karo who this weekend at Briançon in France will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award 2022 for his mountaineering that spans the last four decades and includes more than 300 first...
Watch Jacopo Larcher & Siebe Vanhee climb Le Voyage at Annot
14/08/2022 - Climbing
Watch Jacopo Larcher & Siebe Vanhee climb Le Voyage at Annot
The video of Jacopo Larcher and Siebe Vanhee repeating Le Voyage, France’s hardest trad climb located at Annot.
Simon Gietl completes rope-solo first ascent of stunning Dolomites Peitlerkofel NW Pillar Arête
17/07/2022 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes rope-solo first ascent of stunning Dolomites Peitlerkofel NW Pillar Arête
Last week Simon Gietl completed a new route up the Arête of the North-West Pillar of Peitlerkofel / Sass de Putia (2875m) in the Dolomites. The South Tyrolean mountaineer climbed alone and rope-solo and made one bivouac on the climb.

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