Lorenzo Bogliacino frees Trainspotting (9a+) in Val Tanaro, Italy

Last autumn, after having made the first ascent of Prima Classe (9a), I took a few laps on a route bolted by Carlo Giuliberti. The line climbs straight through the main overhang of at La Stazione and, although the rock quality is slightly poorer than Prima Classe, the climbing is way more physical. I immediately realised that I had to approach the route as a project at my absolute limit and in about fifteen sessions I managed to get close to the send, despite knowing deep down that I was still missing something in order to make the redpoint. The season ended with the onset of winter temperatures and the line remained a project.

All winter I had this climb in mind, and I was convinced that very little was needed to settle unfinished business. In truth another 7-8 sessions were needed, often hampered by wintery conditions and the approach completely covered in snow.

I never thought I'd find a virgin crag with such extreme routes where I could start new routing, yet it happened here at La Stazione, and I don't think I can do anything other than suggest the grade 9a+. Trainspotting is my best performance to date and deserves a difficult grade for me.

I would like to thank all new routers who, through their work, allowed me to repeat many routes before spending time making FA's. I believe establishing new lines is a fundamental step for all climbers.

di Lorenzo Bogliacino

 

 

 

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