37 News found
03/06/2024 - Alpinism
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy On 01/05/2024 Victor Varoshkin, a mountain guide from Bulgaria, became the first person to repeat 'Parallel World' D16 in pure DTS style. The dry tooling climb is located at crag Tomorrow's World below Marmolada in the Italian Dolomites and was...
12/05/2023 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees E ti vengo a cercare in Valle Orco, Italy On 4 May 2023 in Valle dell'Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla and Matteo Sella made the first free ascent of 'E ti vengo a cercare'. In 1980 Ugo Manera and Isidoro Meneghin established all but the last pitch and the route...
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply...
06/09/2022 - Climbing
Alex Rohr retrieves oblivion at Gimmelwald Swiss climber Alexander Rohr has made the first ascent of oblivion, an old project at Gimmelwald in Switzerland now graded 9a.
08/07/2022 - Climbing
Calvario, one of the historic crags at Arco, Italy Calvario, one of the historic crags at Arco, Italy
29/03/2022 - Climbing
Kim Marschner finds Forgotten Gem at Chironico, repeats Crystal Ship at Cresciano In February 2022 Kim Marschner at Chironico in Switzerland made the first ascent of the 8C boulder problem Forgotten Gem. A month earlier at Cresciano the 24-year-old German had repeated the 8C bloc Crystal Ship.
31/12/2021 - Climbing
Luca Bana frees Extrasistole galoppante 9a at Cornalba, Italy The report by 23-year-old Italian climber Luca Bana who on 26/12/2021 made the first ascent of Extrasistole galoppante 9a at the historic crag Cornalba in Val Seriana above Bergamo, Italy.
13/09/2021 - Climbing
Città di Uruk in Val Sapin, climbing at the historic crag above Courmayeur in Italy Città di Uruk is a historic crag located in Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy. With over 30 climbs of all grades, this is reputed to be the best cliff in the entire Aosta Valley. This year the crag hosts...
18/08/2021 - Interviews
Tiro Leader in Val Sapin above Courmayeur, Italy / Alberto Gnerro & Federica Mingolla interview Interview with Alberto Gnerro and Federica Mingolla, the two ‘judges’ of the Tiro Leader Climbing Challenge in Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy’s Aosta Valley. Until October two climbs, one for men and one for women, at the historic crag...
09/06/2021 - Climbing
Five must see crags at Arco, the birthplace of sport climbing as we know it Massone, Nago, Belvedere, Spiaggia delle Lucertole and Calvario: five crags you must visit to savour the best sport climbing around Arco and Lake Garda. This is the first article in a series made with Vibram, to celebrate climbing yesterday, today...
06/06/2021 - Climbing
Val Sapin Tiro Leader climbing challenge above Courmayeur in Valle d’Aosta This summer and autumn the picturesque Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy’s Aosta Valley hosts the third edition of Tiro Leader, a climbing challenge to free two difficult sport climbs at the historic crag La città di Uruk. The first...
11/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse are currently on a bike and climbing trip across the Alps. The Belgian climbers have made swift work of Silbergeier and Headless Children in the Rätikon massif and are now cycling towards Wilder Kaiser in...
17/08/2019 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee climbs Gastlosen testpiece Yeah Man Belgium’s Siebe Vanhee has made a fast ascent of Yeah Man, the 8b+ multi-pitch alpine sports climb up Gran Pfad in Switzerland’s Gastlosen mountain range.
24/12/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze At Varazze (Italy) Giorgia Tesio climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Fortunadrago. Repeated on the same day by Simone Raina, this historic bloc was the first 8B in the area, freed by local Christian Core.
14/12/2018 - Interviews
Stefano Ghisolfi portrays his Perfecto Mundo at Margalef Interview with Stefano Ghisolfi after his repeat of Perfecto Mundo, the 9b+ at Margalef in Spain considered one of the most difficult sport climbs in the world. After Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Alexander Megos, the 25-year-old climber from Italy...
20/11/2018 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin repeats Agincourt at Buoux, France’s historic first 8c At Buoux Sébastien Bouin has repeated Agincourt, France’s first 8c sports climb freed by Ben Moon in 1989.
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