Federica Mingolla frees E ti vengo a cercare in Valle Orco, Italy

Three years after the first free ascent of Angels and Demons, 28-year-old Federica Mingolla and Matteo Sella have now completed and freed another historic climb in Valle dell'Orco, Northern Italy. The route in question is Via Incompiuta on Parete delle Aquile, established in 1979 by two of Italy's prime players, Ugo Manera and Isidoro Meneghin. The pair ascended the route with the use of aid, using all the best gear available at the time except for the hand drill because they chose not to place any bolts. Meneghin breached sections he believed warranted A4 aid and the pair climbed all the way up to the last pitch, a smooth slab that proved impossible to protect. Not wanting to drill holes in the rock, they swiftly descended.

After Meneghin's death the route fell into oblivion until, in 2004, Adriano Trombetta teamed up with Manera; the pair placed some bolts at the belays but were forced to turn back due to the onset of darkness. Once again time passed and, unfortunately, Trombetta died in a ski mountaineering accident.

Now, more than 40 years after that first attempt, the route has finally been completed. Mingolla teamed up with Sella and over a period of four days, climbing ground-up, she bolted, cleaned and finally freed the route. She explained "It was incredible to climb those meters of perfect, blank rock that Ugo and Isidoro had already mastered in the 80s (!). While climbing I wondered how they had managed with the means they had at the time... talk about iron will!"

Mingolla, undoubtedly one of the worst strongest and most versatile climbers, added "As far as I'm concerned, I tried to climb all the pitches ground-up, imagining them going free and the result was surprising! Incredibily beautiful pitches up to 7c."

It is worth noting that before embarking up the route, Mingolla had asked for Manera's approval. The 84-year-old had replied "I am very pleased that you've expressed interested in Via Incompiuta. It is also a way of remembering two dear friends who are no longer with us. If you've added a few bolts to be able to free it, it doesn't bother me at all, on the contrary, I'm rooting for you..."

Mingolla concluded "Ugo asked me to give the route a name and here it is: E ti vengo a cercare, And I'll come looking for you.. like the famous song by Franco Battiato, in honour of our friends."

TOPO: E ti vengo a cercare, Parete delle Aquile, Valle dell'Orco

Mingolla thanks: La Sportiva, Petzl, Salewa, Alba Optics, Sherpa Mountain Shop

Link: www.federicaguidaalpina.com