25 News found
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by...
01/11/2023 - Climbing
Franco Cookson makes first ascent of The Dewin Stone, 9a+ slab at Twll Mawr in North Wales British climber Franco Cookson has made the first ascent of The Dewin Stone, a 9a+ slab at Twll Mawr in the Dinorwig slate quarries above Llanberis in North Wales.
13/09/2023 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni wires 'Wu Wei,' 9a multipitch in Val Nuvola established with Riccardo Scarian On 16 August 2023 Italian climber Ale Zeni made the first free ascent of 'Wu Wei,' a 5-pitch route on the SW Face of Picco delle Aquile, Monte Coppolo (Val Nuvola, Vette Feltrine) that features difficulties up to 9a. If...
09/03/2023 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni repeats Malvazija at Dvigrad in Croatia At Dvigrad in Croatia the Italian climber Ale Zeni has repeated Malvasia, the legendary sport climb freed by Manolo in 1988.
02/08/2022 - Alpinism
New climb on Siula Grande in Peru by Matteo Della Bordella, Marco Majori From 20 to 24 July 2022 Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori established Valore Alpino, a new route on Siula Grande (6344m) in Peru.
23/06/2022 - Alpinism
Siula Grande in Peru the new objective for Matteo Della Bordella and Italian High Mountain Military Corps Elite Italian High Mountain Military Corps alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni, Marco Majori, Filip Babicz and Stefano Cordaro have set off on an expedition to Peru where they will attempt a new route up the east face of Siula...
03/01/2022 - Climbing
Watch Alessandro Zeni climb Eternit at Baule, Dolomites The video of Alessandro Zeni on Eternit, the slab he climbed on 02/11/2021, first ascended by Manolo in 2009 at the crag Baule in the Italian Dolomites.
26/09/2021 - Alpinism
Digital Crack on the Mont Blanc Arête des Cosmiques, yesterday, today and tomorrow The video of Alessandro Zeni and Enzo Oddo climbing Digital Crack on the Arête des Cosmiques of Mont Blanc. Not just any old 8a, as explained by the first ascensionists Thierry Renault and Alain Ghersen.
21/07/2021 - Alpinism
Watch Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni free Leap of Faith on Poncione d’Alnasca The short film by Nicolò and Fulvio Mariani documenting the first free ascent of Leap of Faith on Poncione d’Alnasca in Switzerland, carried out by Matteo Della Bordella and Alessandro Zeni in autumn 2020.
17/11/2020 - Alpinism
Leap of Faith freed on Poncione d'Alnasca by Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni Italian climbers Matteo Della Bordella and Alessandro Zeni have made the first free ascent of Leap of Faith (8a+/b max, 7b+ obligatory, 500m), a big new multi-pitch up Poncione d'Alnasca in Switzerland.
24/09/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created...
08/05/2020 - Interviews
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of...
04/05/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni deciphers Cryptography, 9b slab at Saint Loup in Switzerland On 11 January 2020 Italian climber Alessandro Zeni made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna at the crag Saint Loup in Switzerland. The 28-year-old has put forward the grade 9b, indicating it is...
08/01/2019 - Climbing
Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati, Marco Zanone… climbing a muerte in Spain Roundup of recent redpoints at Margalef, Siurana and Perles in Spain by the Italian climbers Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati and Marco Zanone. In addition, noteworthy attempts at Saint Loup in Switzerland by Riccardo Scarian and Alessandro Zeni.
16/12/2018 - Climbing
Wafaa Amer claims Hyaena, historic Andrea Gallo testpiece at Finale, Italy Egyptian rock climber Wafaa Amer report about her repeat of Hyaena, the milestone in Italian sports climbing freed by Andrea Gallo in 1986 at Finale Ligure.
19/11/2018 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni frees his Cosmic Energy, a possible 9a+ at Bilico, Dolomites At the crag Bilico (Primiero, Dolomites) Alessandro Zeni has made the first ascent of Energia Cosmica, Cosmic Energy, a sports climb the 27-year-old has now tentatively graded 9a+.
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