Alessandro Zeni repeats Malvazija at Dvigrad in Croatia

A lightning trip to Dvigrad in Croatia netted Alessandro Zeni a fast repeat of Malvazija, the legendary slab at Dvigrad bolted by Maurizio Zanolla in 1987 and freed the magician a year later. With a grade of 8b+, it was considered one of the hardest routes in the world at the time. Over the years its reputation increased significantly, also because it was considered impossible by some after holds had allegedly broken off.

In 2010 US climber Cody Roth managed to redpoint the line, suggesting for what he had just climbed the grade of 8c+. Zeni, who in 2020 established the 9b slab Cryptography at Saint Loup in Switzerland, required four days of attempts for his repeat and has now confirmed the grade put forward by Roth. Zeni’s is a beautiful and rare ascent of this intense slab that evidently continues to inspire.

TOPO: Dvigrad, Croatia

Alessandro Zeni thanks his sponsors La Sportiva, Karpos and Grivel