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Walter Nones dies on Cho Oyu
03/10/2010 - Alpinism
Walter Nones dies on Cho Oyu
Walter Nones has died on Cho Oyu (8201m), the sixth highest mountain in the world. His death has been confirmed directly by the wife of the Italian alpinist.
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than...
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni...
Bouldering World Cup 2010, Fischhuber and Johnson win in Greifensee
17/05/2010 - Competitions
Bouldering World Cup 2010, Fischhuber and Johnson win in Greifensee
On 15/05/2010 the first of the seven stage Bouldering World Cup 2010 was won in Greifensee (Switzerland) by Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) and Alex Johnson (USA). Adam Ondra (CZE) and Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) placed second, while Christian Core (ITA) and Chloé...
Annapurna, successful and failed rescues
30/04/2010 - Alpinism
Annapurna, successful and failed rescues
Three alpinists weere airlifted to safety by helicopter from an altitude of 6950m on Annapurna yesterday, while Spanish mountaineer Tolo Calafat passed away.
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
30/03/2010 - Alpinism
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The...
Dave MacLeod, new desperate winter climb in Scotland
26/02/2010 - Alpinism
Dave MacLeod, new desperate winter climb in Scotland
Dave MacLeod has carried out the first winter ascent of Anubis, at E8 6c one of the hardest summer routes on Ben Nevis which was, unsurprisingly, first ascended in 2005 by Macleod himself.
First ascents in the Antarctica Queen Maud Land
First ascents in the Antarctica Queen Maud Land
A three man Austrian expedition to Queen Maud Land in the Antarctica at the end of 2009 resulted in eleven first ascents.
Reinhold Messner interview
27/01/2010 - Interviews
Reinhold Messner interview
Reinhold Messner, his life and alpinism beyond the 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
Ice World Cup 2010, Kirov and Valle di Daone
15/01/2010 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2010, Kirov and Valle di Daone
The best ice climbers in the world will gather in Valle di Daone (Trentino) this weekend for the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2010. The athletes to beat are Angelika Rainer from Italy and Markus Bendler from...
Tomaz Humar
19/11/2009 - Alpinism
Tomaz Humar
The charismatic Slovenian climber who became one of the world's leading mountaineers, remembered by British journalist Ed Douglas.
Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
14/11/2009 - Alpinism
Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
This morning at 05.25 European time the dead body of Slovenian alpinist Tomasz Humar was recovered from 5600m on the South Face of Langtang Lirung (7230m, Nepal) by a helicopter with a rescue team comprised of Swissmen Robert Andenmatten and...
Charakusa Valley, new big wall in Karakorum
28/09/2009 - Alpinism
Charakusa Valley, new big wall in Karakorum
In August 2009 a four man team from Australia and New Zealand established Naughty Daddies (630m 7b), a new route on Nafees Cap, the massive granite spire detached from K7 in the Charakusa Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan.
Goodbye Riccardo Cassin
07/08/2009 - Alpinism
Goodbye Riccardo Cassin
Riccardo Cassin passed away last night at his home in Resinelli at the foot of his beloved Grigna mountain. Cassin was one of the world's all time absolute mountaineering legends. He had celebrated his 100th birthday on 2 January this...
Red Bull X-Alps 2009 Day 3 Summary
21/07/2009 - Competitions
Red Bull X-Alps 2009 Day 3 Summary
Nutella for breakfast, Marmolada for lunch, predicted Christian Maurer (SUI3) earlier today...
In memory of Giuliano De Marchi
09/06/2009 - Alpinism
In memory of Giuliano De Marchi
On 5 June Giuliano De Marchi, a doctor and strong mountaineer from Belluno, died on Monte Antelao, Dolomites. Michel Barbiero, his companion in Alaska 2007, remembers him.