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Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
Belgian climber Seb Berthe reports about his first 9a+ redpoint, Super-Crackinette at Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux in France. Success came about after a relentless summer on some of the hardest multi-pitch climbs across the Alps.
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
18/11/2020 - Alpinism
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
On 11 November 2020 Martin Feistl and David Bruder made the first repeat and first free ascent of Sagzahnverschneidung, the difficult mixed route in the Valsertal in Austria established in 2018 by David Lama and Peter Mühlberger.
Marmolada: exploring the first refuge in the Dolomites with Bruno Pederiva
12/11/2020 - Alpinism
Marmolada: exploring the first refuge in the dolomites with Bruno Pederiva
The oldest refuge in the dolomites, located on the east face of Punta Penia on Marmolada, featuring mountain guide Bruno Pederiva.
Campanile di Val Montanaia historic bell rings again across Dolomites
11/11/2020 - Alpinism
Campanile di Val Montanaia historic bell rings again across dolomites
After being damaged by lightning in 2019, the bronze bell on the summit of Campanile di Val Montanaia in the Friuli dolomites has been replaced by the CAI of Pordenone after a crowdfunding campaign.
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
06/11/2020 - Alpinism
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
American alpinists Priti and Jeff Wright made the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in the Karakorum in Pakistan on 9 October 2020, a day after making the third ascent of K6 West (7140m). The Wright’s report about their impressive alpine style ascent that required 8 nights and nine days on...
Brenta Dolomites: Frizzi & Lazzi rock climb on Torrione di Vallesinella
04/11/2020 - Alpinism
Brenta dolomites: Frizzi & Lazzi rock climb on Torrione di Vallesinella
In summer 2019 Italian mountain guide Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi and Martina Paolazzi made the first ascent of the multi-pitch climb Frizzi & Lazzi on Torrione di Vallesinella in the Brenta dolomites.
Xylophon added to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites, by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
22/10/2020 - Alpinism
Xylophon added to Heiligkreuzkofel, dolomites, by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
The climbers belonging to the GAG Val Gardena mountaineering club Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth have established Xylophon, a multi-pitch rock climb up Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc in the dolomites, Italy.
The King of Fanes added to Col Bechei, Dolomites, by Simon Kehrer, Manuel Baumgartner
16/10/2020 - Alpinism
The King of Fanes added to Col Bechei, dolomites, by Simon Kehrer, Manuel Baumgartner
The two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of The King of Fanes on the South Face of Col Becchei (dolomites).
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
15/10/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has become the first woman to climb Greenspit, the difficult trad route first ascended by Didier Berthod in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
Backstage revealed on Kleine Zinne, in Tre Cime di Lavaredo, climbed by Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini
11/10/2020 - Alpinism
Backstage revealed on Kleine Zinne, in Tre Cime di Lavaredo, climbed by Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini
In spring 2019 Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Backstage, a 350m multi-pitch with difficulties up to VIII+/R3 on the south face of Kleine Zinne / Cima Piccola, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, dolomites. Messini reports.
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
28/09/2020 - Climbing
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big walls across the globe.
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
24/09/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c dolomites multipitch
In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created Cani Morti Plus. Graded 8c, this is now one of...
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Space Vertigo freed by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
18/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Space Vertigo freed by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
The three mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have freed each individual pitch of Space Vertigo, the multi-pitch rock climb they completed last year on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, dolomites.
Cinque Torri flash mob in protest against new infrastructure in the Dolomites
05/09/2020 - Environment
Cinque Torri flash mob in protest against new infrastructure in the dolomites
The press release concerning a 'mountaineering' flash mob that took place on 03/40/2020 on the Cinque Torri (Cortina, dolomites) in protest against new ski lifts and constructions in the dolomites.
Alta infedeltà climbed Sasso delle Undici Marmolada, Dolomites
28/08/2020 - Alpinism
Alta infedeltà climbed Sasso delle Undici Marmolada, dolomites
Alta infedeltà, High infidelity, is a multi-pitch rock climb established on 22 June 2020 on Sasso delle Undici in Marmolada, dolomites by the mountain guides Thomas Gianola and Fabrizio Della Rossa. The seven pitch outing breaches difficulties up to VI-.
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
24/08/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.