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Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati, Marco Zanone… climbing a muerte in Spain
08/01/2019 - Climbing
Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati, Marco Zanone… climbing a muerte in Spain
Roundup of recent redpoints at Margalef, Siurana and Perles in Spain by the Italian climbers Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati and Marco Zanone. In addition, noteworthy attempts at Saint Loup in Switzerland by Riccardo Scarian and Alessandro Zeni.
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
07/01/2019 - Alpinism
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period and has been called Saṃsāra (ED2 AI5 M6).
Jakub Konečný climbs Catxasa at Santa Linya, his first 9a+
05/01/2019 - Climbing
Jakub Konečný climbs Catxasa at Santa Linya, his first 9a+
On 31/12/2018 at Santa Linya in Spain the 19-year-old Czech climber Jakub Konečný redpointed Catxasa, his first 9a+ sports climb.
New Zion aid route climbed by Paul Gagner, Ryan Kempf
03/01/2019 - Climbing
New Zion aid route climbed by Paul Gagner, Ryan Kempf
Climbing in Zion National Park, USA: in November 2018 Paul Gagner and Ryan Kempf made the first ascent of Museum Piece (V 5.8 A4), a new aid climb up the Angelino Wall.
Jernej Kruder climbs Croatia’s hardest, Dugi rat at Omiš
02/01/2019 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder climbs Croatia’s hardest, Dugi rat at Omiš
On 31/12/2018 Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder made the first ascent of Dugi rat at the crag Vrulja close to Omiš in Croatia. Graded 9a+, this is now the hardest sport climb in the country.
Sardinia sport climbing: the new guidebook to Domusnovas
01/01/2019 - Climbing
Sardinia sport climbing: the new guidebook to Domusnovas
Maurizio Oviglia introduces the new climbing guidebook to Domusnovas, in the south-west of Sardinia, one of the 'historic' sport climbing areas on the Italian island.
Zabardast: Biacherahi and the incredible freeride skiing in the heart of the Karakorum
Zabardast: Biacherahi and the incredible freeride skiing in the heart of the Karakorum
The film Zabardast directed by Jérôme Tanon that documents a trip into the heart of the Karakorum to explore the potential for freeride skiing in Pakistan. The highlight was the ski descent of 5880m high Biacherahi. With Thomas Delfino, Léo Taillefer, Zak Mills, Yannick Graziani and Hélias Millerioux.
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Neanderthal, Chris Sharma 9b at Santa Linya
29/12/2018 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Neanderthal, Chris Sharma 9b at Santa Linya
Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has made the first repeat of Neanderthal, the 9b sports climb put up by Chris Sharma in 2009 at the Santa Linya in Spain.
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
27/12/2018 - Interviews
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
Interview with the 23-year-old Italian climber Lorenzo Puri, who recently climbed his 100th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
25/12/2018 - Alpinism
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
On 14 December 2018 Gianni Canale, Demis Lorenzi and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Filo d’Ambiez ( AI, VI-, 350m), a direct line up the NW Face of Cima d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
24/12/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
At Varazze (Italy) Giorgia Tesio climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Fortunadrago. Repeated on the same day by Simone Raina, this historic bloc was the first 8B in the area, freed by local Christian Core.
Adam Ondra onsighting Just Do It at Smith Rock, the uncut video
23/12/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra onsighting Just Do It at Smith Rock, the uncut video
The uncut video, ie Adam Ondra’s entire onsight ascent of Just Do It 8c+ at Smith Rock, USA, carried out in November 2018.
Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
22/12/2018 - Alpinism
Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
The video of the ascent of the stunning ridge up Choktoi Ri 6166m in Pakistan’s Karakorum, first climbed in summer 2018 by Fabian Buhl and Alexander Huber. The 2200m route is called The Big Easy.
Rabenstein Ice Tower opens today
21/12/2018 - Alpinism
Rabenstein Ice Tower opens today
On Friday 21 December 2018 the Ice Tower at Rabenstein / Corvara in the Dolomites will open to the public. The structure will host a stage of the 2019 Ice Climbing World Cup on 1 - 3 February 2019.
Gabriele Moroni is Off The Wagon in Valle Bavona
20/12/2018 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni is Off The Wagon in Valle Bavona
Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has repeated Off the Wagon, the famous boulder problem graded 8B+ in Val Bavona, Switzerland.
Iker Pou at Margalef frees Artaburu, his hardest climb ever
19/12/2018 - Climbing
Iker Pou at Margalef frees Artaburu, his hardest climb ever
At Margalef in Spain, Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of Artaburu, his hardest sport climb to date.

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