Bouldering World Cup, Akiyo Noguchi commands in China

A week has passed since the Boulder World Cup in China and it’s time to take stock of what happened during the last two stages at Chongqing and at Tai’an.

After two third places in the first two stages of the 2018 Bouldering World Cup, Akiyo Noguchi kept the momentum going in both Chongqing and Tai’an, winning both stages and taking provisional first in the overall rankings. The Japanese beat her teammate Miho Nonaka who was forced to settle for silver on both occasions, while European Bouldering champion Stasa Gejo won bronze - her long overdue first World Cup medal - in Chongqing before slipping into fourth place behind Fanny Gilbert a week later.

In the men’s competition in Chongqing Kokoro Fujii sent three of the 4 final problems to secure gold in an extremely strong international field, beating Sean McColl who was finally back on the podium after what must have seemed like an eternal dry run for the Canadian. Third place went to Aleksei Rubtsov, ahead of Jakob Schubert, Jan Hojer and, the man of the moment, Jernej Kruder. After having competed assiduously for 10 years the Slovenian seems to have finally unlocked the key and, climbing in his usual all-or-nothing style, he took the lead in the provisional ranking by securing silver a week later, just ahead of his young teammate Gregor Vezonik, the two Japanese Rei Sugimoto and Kokoro Fujii, and South Korea’s Jongwon Chon. And first place? That went - more than deservedly - to Alex Khazanov who secured his first-ever gold medal, as well as the first for Israel. And to think that his decision to travel to China was taken at the very last moment, after having placed 7th in Moscow just a fortnight earlier…

Chongqing and Tai’an also hosted stages of the Speed World Cup. In Chongqing Aries Susanti Rahayu of Indonesia won her first gold medal by beating Elena Timofeeva, while her teammate Puji Lestari secured her first IFSC World Cup podium after a fall from world champion Anna Tsyganova (RUS) in the small final. Dmitrii Timofeev sped to the top and beat Aspar Jaelolo, while Danyil Boldyrev and JinXin Li placed third and fourth respectively. In Tai’an Anouck Jaubert returned to the top of the Speed climbing podium and season rankings and Bassa Mawem won his first IFSC World Cup. The French beat Indonesia's Sari Agustina and Sabri Sabri, while Aries Susanti Rahayu and Dmitrii Timofeev placed third.

BOULDER - Chongqing (CHN) 2018
FEMALE
1 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4T4z55
2 Miho Nonaka JPN 3T3z77
3 Stasa Gejo SRB 1T3z27
4 Ekaterina Kipriianova RUS 1T1z11
5 Jessica Pilz AUT 1T1z21
6 Katja Kadic SLO 1T1z44
7 Chloe Caulier BEL
8 Fanny Gibert FRA
9 Mélanie Sandoz FRA
10 Hung Ying Lee TPE
11 Alannah Yip CAN
12 Alma Bestvater GER
13 Flavy Cohaut FRA
14 Charlotte Andre FRA
15 Johanna Färber AUT
16 Futaba Ito JPN
17 Julia Pinggera AUT
18 Vanessa Si Yinn Teng SGP
18 Tomoko Kajima JPN
20 Mao Nakamura JPN
21 Kyra Condie USA
21 Lilli Kiesgen GER
23 Afra Hönig GER
23 Saki Kikuchi JPN
25 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
25 Mei Kotake JPN
27 Camille Faille FRA
27 Karoline Sinnhuber AUT
29 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
29 Allison Vest CAN
31 Nanako Kura JPN
31 Anna Tsyganova RUS
33 Rong Jiang CHN
33 LaMu Renqing CHN
35 Sierra Blair-Coyle USA
35 Aya Onoe JPN
37 Saeko Sugimura JPN
37 Vera Zijlstra NED
39 Pankaew Plypoolsup THA
39 Jennifer Wood GBR
41 Klaudia Buczek POL
41 Imogen Horrocks GBR
43 Wai-ping Yu HKG
43 Margaryta Zakharova UKR
45 Anna Brozek POL
45 Wing Sze Yuen HKG
47 Sarah Tetzlaff NZL

MALE
1 Kokoro Fujii JPN 3T3z98
2 Sean Mccoll CAN 2T3z24
3 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 2T3z57
4 Jakob Schubert AUT 2T2z22
5 Jan Hojer GER 1T3z13
6 Jernej Kruder SLO 1T2z13
7 Manuel Cornu FRA
7 Alban Levier FRA
9 Taisei Ishimatsu JPN
10 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
11 Tomoa Narasaki JPN
12 Rei Sugimoto JPN
13 Gregor Vezonik SLO
14 Ryuichi Murai JPN
15 Yuji Fujiwaki JPN
16 Nathan Phillips GBR
16 Anze Peharc SLO
18 Yannick Flohé GER
19 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
20 Mickael Mawem FRA
21 Kai Harada JPN
21 Alex Khazanov ISR
23 Gabriele Moroni ITA
23 Keita Watabe JPN
25 Tomoaki Takata JPN
25 Elias Weiler AUT
27 Alfons Dornauer AUT
27 Jason Holowach CAN
29 Kim Marschner GER
29 Sergii Topishko UKR
31 Sean Bailey USA
31 David Firnenburg GER
33 Guillaume Glairon Mondet FRA
33 Moritz Hans GER
35 Riccardo Piazza ITA
35 Max Prinz GER
37 YuFei Pan CHN
37 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
39 Jan-Luca Posch AUT
39 Aidan Roberts GBR
41 Rustam Gelmanov RUS
41 Cheuk-hei Ho HKG
43 David Barrans GBR
43 Sergei Skorodumov RUS
45 Matthew Cousins GBR
45 Keita Dohi JPN
47 Eric Lopez Mateos ESP
47 Nathan Smith CAN
49 DiChong Huang CHN
49 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN
51 Asher Gavin Chiam Kai Chen SGP
51 Thilo Jeldrik Schröter NOR
53 Chua Dennis SGP
53 Hei-yeung Lam HKG
55 Nicolas Januel FRA
55 Florian Klingler AUT
55 Lucas Uchida CAN
58 Mark Chan Chong Kiat SGP
59 Paul Emmanuel Ryan SGP
59 Georg Parma AUT
61 Cheung-chi Shoji Chan HKG
61 Rolands Rugens LAT
63 Chi-fung Au HKG
63 Tyler Landman GBR
65 Matthias Erber AUT
65 Sergio Pastormartínez ESP
67 Alexander Averdunk GER
67 Liam Healy AUS
67 Wan Tong Lok MAC
67 Winai Ruangrit THA
71 Samuel Bowman AUS
71 Sebastien Lazure CAN
73 Alistair Earley AUS
73 Ludovico Fossali ITA
73 George Sanders NZL
76 Sergio Verdasco Urizal ESP
77 Ben Abel AUS
77 Marcin Dzienski POL
77 Tyler Fleury NZL
77 Samuel Munday NZL
77 Chun-Hsiang Wang TPE
77 Kye Wotton CAN
77 Danila Yamchuk LAT

BOULDER - Tai'an (CHN) 2018
FEMALE
1 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4T4z55
2 Miho Nonaka JPN 4T4z107
3 Fanny Gibert FRA 2T3z67
4 Stasa Gejo SRB 1T3z37
5 Johanna Färber AUT 1T3z410
6 Kyra Condie USA 0T3z05
7 Katja Kadic SLO
8 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
9 Nanako Kura JPN
10 Ekaterina Kipriianova RUS
11 Mei Kotake JPN
11 Tomoko Kajima JPN
13 Futaba Ito JPN
14 Sol Sa KOR
15 Saeko Sugimura JPN
16 Jessica Pilz AUT
17 Jain Kim KOR
18 Flavy Cohaut FRA
19 Aya Onoe JPN
20 Julia Pinggera AUT
21 Charlotte Andre FRA
21 Mélanie Sandoz FRA
23 Alma Bestvater GER
23 Sierra Blair-Coyle USA
25 Lilli Kiesgen GER
25 Hung Ying Lee TPE
25 Karoline Sinnhuber AUT
28 Jennifer Wood GBR
29 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
29 Alannah Yip CAN
31 Afra Hönig GER
31 Allison Vest CAN
33 Camille Faille FRA
33 Vera Zijlstra NED
35 Chloe Caulier BEL
35 Anouck Jaubert FRA
37 Rong Jiang CHN
37 Margaryta Zakharova UKR
39 Heeyeon Park KOR
39 Vanessa Si Yinn Teng SGP
41 Alla Marenych UKR
41 Anna Tsyganova RUS
43 LaMu Renqing CHN
43 Sarah Tetzlaff NZL
45 Anna Brozek POL
45 Imogen Horrocks GBR
47 Edyta Ropek POL

MALE
1 Alex Khazanov ISR 3T4z79
2 Jernej Kruder SLO 2T4z25
3 Gregor Vezonik SLO 2T4z410
4 Rei Sugimoto JPN 2T4z410
5 Kokoro Fujii JPN 2T4z75
6 Jongwon Chon KOR 2T3z66
7 Jan Hojer GER
8 Tomoa Narasaki JPN
9 Keita Watabe JPN
10 Tomoaki Takata JPN
11 Yuji Fujiwaki JPN
12 Jakob Schubert AUT
12 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS
14 Gabriele Moroni ITA
15 Taisei Ishimatsu JPN
16 Anze Peharc SLO
17 Nathan Phillips GBR
18 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
19 Ryuichi Murai JPN
20 Sean Mccoll CAN
21 Matthew Cousins GBR
21 Mickael Mawem FRA
23 Kai Harada JPN
23 Alban Levier FRA
25 Manuel Cornu FRA
25 Keita Dohi JPN
27 Sean Bailey USA
27 Yannick Flohé GER
29 Asher Gavin Chiam Kai Chen SGP
29 YuFei Pan CHN
31 Florian Klingler AUT
31 Sergii Topishko UKR
33 Chi-fung Au HKG
33 Kai Lightner USA
35 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
35 DiChong Huang CHN
37 Aidan Roberts GBR
37 Elias Weiler AUT
39 Kim Marschner GER
39 Rolands Rugens LAT
41 Alexander Averdunk GER
41 Guillaume Glairon Mondet FRA
43 Matthias Erber AUT
43 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
45 Jan-Luca Posch AUT
45 Sergei Skorodumov RUS
47 Alfons Dornauer AUT
47 Paul Emmanuel Ryan SGP
49 David Barrans GBR
49 Max Prinz GER
51 Moritz Hans GER
51 Wan Tong Lok MAC
53 Samuel Bowman AUS
53 Georg Parma AUT
55 Jason Holowach CAN
55 Hongil Kim KOR
57 Nicolas Januel FRA
57 Eric Lopez Mateos ESP
59 Riccardo Piazza ITA
59 Thilo Jeldrik Schröter NOR
61 Tyler Landman GBR
61 Sergio Verdasco Urizal ESP
63 Cheung-chi Shoji Chan HKG
63 Philipp Martin GER
65 Nathan Smith CAN
65 Lucas Uchida CAN
67 Seongmin Eom KOR
67 Donghyeon Kim KOR
69 Zach Richardson CAN
69 Alessandro Santoni ITA
71 John Brosler USA
71 Liam Healy AUS
73 Chua Dennis SGP
73 Ludovico Fossali ITA
75 Hanwool Kim KOR
75 Hei-yeung Lam HKG
77 Sebastien Lazure CAN
77 Sergio Pastor Martínez ESP
79 Rustam Gelmanov RUS
79 Cheuk-hei Ho HKG
81 Ben Abel AUS
81 Alistair Earley AUS
83 Mark Chan Chong Kiat SGP
83 Seungwoon Cho KOR
85 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN
85 Samuel Munday NZL
87 Marcin Dzienski POL
87 Tyler Fleury NZL
87 Leonardo Gontero ITA
87 George Sanders NZL
87 Chun-Hsiang Wang TPE
87 Kye Wotton CAN
87 Danila Yamchuk LAT

SPEED - Chongqing
FEMALE
1 Aries Susanti Rahayu INA 7.51
2 Elena Timofeeva RUS 9.01
3 Puji Lestari INA 8.11
4 Anna Tsyganova RUS fall
5 CuiLian He CHN
6 Elena Remizova RUS
7 Sari Agustina INA
8 Anouck Jaubert FRA
9 Mariia Krasavina RUS
10 Iqomah Nurul INA
11 Victoire Andrier FRA
12 Rajiah Sallsabillah INA
13 YiLing Song CHN
14 Klaudia Buczek POL
15 Anna Brozek POL
16 Iuliia Kaplina RUS
17 Elma Fleuret FRA
18 Di Niu CHN
19 Alla Marenych UKR
20 Santi Wellyanti INA
21 HaiMei Qiu CHN
22 Fitriyani Fitriyani INA
23 Edyta Ropek POL
24 LiJuan Deng CHN
25 Xuhua Pan CHN
26 Daria Kan RUS
27 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
28 Hung Ying Lee TPE
29 LaMu Renqing CHN
30 Kyra Condie USA
31 Futaba Ito JPN
32 Nanako Kura JPN
33 Akiyo Noguchi JPN
34 Aurelia Sarisson FRA
35 Alannah Yip CAN
36 Mao Nakamura JPN
37 Narada Disyabut THA
38 Stefanie Ann Low Su Ying SGP
39 Mei Kotake JPN
40 Azmie Nadirah SGP
41 Vanessa Si Yinn Teng SGP
42 Sarah Tetzlaff NZL
43 Pankaew Plypoolsup THA

MALE
1 Dmitrii Timofeev RUS 5.76
2 Aspar Jaelolo INA 6.83
3 Danyil Boldyrev UKR 5.73
4 JinXin Li CHN 5.88
5 Bassa Mawem FRA
6 Aleksandr Shikov RUS
7 Reza Alipourshena. IRI
8 Stanislav Kokorin RUS
9 Hinayah Muhammad INA
10 Ludovico Fossali ITA
10 Aleksandr Shilov RUS
12 PengHui Lin CHN
13 Sabri Sabri INA
14 Arsenii Bogomolov RUS
15 Pangeran Septo Wibowo Siburian INA
16 Vladislav Deulin RUS
17 Marcin Dzienski POL
17 ZhiYong Ou CHN
17 Kostiantyn Pavlenko UKR
20 Guillaume Moro FRA
21 Yulianto Abudzar INA
22 Leonardo Gontero ITA
23 RongQi Liang CHN
24 Guangfeng Li CHN
25 Paul Emmanuel Ryan SGP
26 Artem Khabibullin RUS
27 Veddriq Leonardo INA
28 Mickael Mawem FRA
29 DiChong Huang CHN
30 YuRong Duan CHN
31 Alessandro Santoni ITA
32 Manuel Cornu FRA
33 Tomoa Narasaki JPN
34 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
35 Kokoro Fujii JPN
36 Phanuphong Bunprakop THA
37 XueBan Yang CHN
38 Cheung-chi Shoji Chan HKG
39 Keita Dohi JPN
39 Sergii Topishko UKR
41 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
41 Winai Ruangrit THA
43 Kai Harada JPN
44 Kim Marschner GER
44 Sufriyanto Rindi INA
46 Chi-fung Au HKG
47 Tay Kuan Liang SGP
48 Mohamad Kamal Amar Hassan SGP
49 David Firnenburg GER
50 Sean Mccoll CAN
51 Sergio Verdasco Urizal ESP
52 YuXu Li CHN
53 Jason Holowach CAN
54 Riccardo Piazza ITA
55 Eric Lopez Mateos ESP
56 Alexander Averdunk GER
57 Sergio Pastor Martínez ESP
58 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN
59 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
60 George Sanders NZL
61 Mark Chan Chong Kiat SGP
62 Samuel Munday NZL

SPEED - Tai'an (CHN) 2018
FEMALE
1 Anouck Jaubert FRA 7.62
2 Sari Agustina INA 7.74
3 Aries Susanti Rahayu INA 8.86
4 Anna Brozek POL 9.17
5 Aurelia Sarisson FRA
6 Anna Tsyganova RUS
7 Mariia Krasavina RUS
8 Rajiah Sallsabillah INA
9 Elena Remizova RUS
10 Alla Marenych UKR
11 MingWei Ni CHN
12 CuiLian He CHN
13 Santi Wellyanti INA
14 Elena Timofeeva RUS
15 Victoire Andrier FRA
16 Iuliia Kaplina RUS
17 Edyta Ropek POL
18 Elma Fleuret FRA
18 Di Niu CHN
20 Daria Kan RUS
21 YiLing Song CHN
22 Puji Lestari INA
22 Iqomah Nurul INA
22 Xuhua Pan CHN
25 Mulyani Mudji INA
26 HaiMei Qiu CHN
27 Miho Nonaka JPN
28 LiJuan Deng CHN
29 Rong Jiang CHN
30 Hung Ying Lee TPE
31 LaMu Renqing CHN
32 Nanako Kura JPN
33 Alannah Yip CAN
34 Vanessa Si Yinn Teng SGP
35 Akiyo Noguchi JPN
36 Yusri Nadrah SGP
37 Azmie Nadirah SGP
38 Sarah Tetzlaff NZL
39 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS

MALE
1 Bassa Mawem FRA 5.68
2 Sabri Sabri INA 5.75
3 Dmitrii Timofeev RUS 100.00
4 Aspar Jaelolo INA false
5 Stanislav Kokorin RUS
6 Alfian Muhammad INA
7 Danyil Boldyrev UKR
8 Hinayah Muhammad INA
9 Aleksandr Shikov RUS
10 Aleksandr Shilov RUS
11 Sufriyanto Rindi INA
12 PengHui Lin CHN
13 John Brosler USA
14 Pangeran Septo Wibowo Siburian INA
15 Ludovico Fossali ITA
16 Arsenii Bogomolov RUS
17 Artem Khabibullin RUS
18 Yulianto Abudzar INA
19 Guillaume Moro FRA
20 Kostiantyn Pavlenko UKR
21 Vladislav Deulin RUS
21 Marcin Dzienski POL
23 Guangfeng Li CHN
24 Alessandro Santoni ITA
25 Leonardo Gontero ITA
26 YuRong Duan CHN
27 RongQi Liang CHN
28 XueBan Yang CHN
29 Mickael Mawem FRA
30 Paul Emmanuel Ryan SGP
31 DiChong Huang CHN
32 YuFei Pan CHN
33 YuXu Li CHN
34 Seungwoon Cho KOR
35 Donghyeon Kim KOR
36 Jungju Kim KOR
37 Manuel Cornu FRA
38 Hongil Kim KOR
39 JinXin Li CHN
40 Tay Kuan Liang SGP
41 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
42 Tomoa Narasaki JPN
43 Seongmin Eom KOR
44 Kokoro Fujii JPN
45 Sergii Topishko UKR
46 Hanwool Kim KOR
47 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
48 Keita Dohi JPN
49 Sean Mccoll CAN
50 Jakob Schubert AUT
51 Chi-fung Au HKG
52 Alexander Averdunk GER
53 Kim Marschner GER
54 Kai Lightner USA
55 Jan Hojer GER
55 Riccardo Piazza ITA
57 Kai Harada JPN
58 Moritz Hans GER
59 Eric Lopez Mateos ESP
60 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
61 Sergio Verdasco Urizal ESP
62 Mark Chan Chong Kiat SGP
63 George Sanders NZL
64 Samuel Munday NZL
65 Jason Holowach CAN
66 Tyler Fleury NZL
67 Cheung-chi Shoji Chan HKG
67 ZhiYong Ou CHN