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Via Napoleone discovered in Val Torrone, Val Masino
21/08/2017 - Alpinism
Via Napoleone discovered in Val Torrone, Val Masino
Giovanni Giarletta reports about the first ascent of Via Napoleone, a new climb in remote Val Torrone high above Val Masino, initiated by Manuele Panzeri and Pietro Tentori about nine years ago and completed this August.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo - rock climbing in the Dolomites
18/08/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo - rock climbing in the Dolomites
Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola: the Tre Cime di Lavaredo offer unparalleled rock climbing throughout the Dolomites. Planetmountain.com provides an overview with some of the routes that have become milestones in the history of mountaineering, such as Spigolo Giallo,...
L'or du temps, new climb up Grand Capucin by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez
18/08/2017 - Alpinism
L'or du temps, new climb up Grand Capucin by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez
Over 4 days this summer France’s Arnaud Petit and Switzerland’s Nina Caprez made the first ascent of L'or du temps, a new route up the South Face of Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc massif.
Federica Mingolla repeats Via della Cattedrale, Marmolada, Dolomites
17/08/2017 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla repeats Via della Cattedrale, Marmolada, Dolomites
Interview with Italian climber Federica Mingolla who teamed up with Nicolò Geremia to repeat Via della Cattedrale (8a+ max, 800m), the famous climb up Marmolada, Dolomites
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
16/08/2017 - Alpinism
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
In July 2017 a Chilean expedition comprised of Andres Bosch, Alejandro Mora and Armando Montero has made two first ascents close to Broad Peak and K2 in Pakistan’s Karakorum range: Praqpa Ri South 7046m and the new route Mirchi up...
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
15/08/2017 - Climbing
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
The second and final episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek climb Project fear
15/08/2017 - Alpinism
Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek climb Project fear
On 2 August 2017 Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek carried out the second repeat of Project Fear (8c, 550 m) up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
Petri Heil new rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
14/08/2017 - Climbing
Petri Heil new rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
In 2016 Hannes Pfeifhofer and Dietmar Niederbrunner made the first ascent of Petri Heil (6c +, 590 meters), a new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco
14/08/2017 - Climbing
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco
The first episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
11/08/2017 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
The report by Czech mountaineer Marek Holeček who with Zdeněk Hák established over 8 days a great new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum.
Cima Ovest, new rock climb at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites
10/08/2017 - Alpinism
Cima Ovest, new rock climb at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites
On the NW Face Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites, Manuel Baumgartner and Alexander Huber have established Schatten der Großen (VII, 330m).
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
09/08/2017 - Climbing
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
A legend, a desire destined to remain a dream for most climbers: this is what the Kosterlitz crack in Valle dell'Orco represented to the Italian climbing scene in the ’70’s and ’80’s after having been first ascended in the early...
Arco Rock Legends 2017: the 6 nominations for the sport climbing Oscar
08/08/2017 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2017: the 6 nominations for the sport climbing Oscar
The sport climbing Oscars return to Arco on Friday 25 August 2017 with the 12th edition of Arco Rock Legends, celebrated during the 31st Rock Master. The candidates for the Wild Country Rock Award are Stefano Ghisolfi (Ita), Margo Hayes...
Bernd Zangerl climbs Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland
07/08/2017 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl climbs Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland
The video of Austrian climber Bernd Zangerl who, 489 days after a serious injury, has managed to make the first free ascent of Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland. Graded 8c+, this route is one of the hardest trad climbs...
Federica Mingolla climbs Vertical Chimera on Civetta, Dolomites
04/08/2017 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs Vertical Chimera on Civetta, Dolomites
Federica Mingolla and Francesco Rigon have repeated Chimera Verticale (IX, 600m + initial pedestal), the difficult alpine climb up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites) first ascended by Alessandro Baù, Daniele Geremia, Alessandro Beber and Luca Matteraglia.
Steve House mountain training workshop at Chamonix on 19 August
03/08/2017 - Events
Steve House mountain training workshop at Chamonix on 19 August
Five questions to American alpinist Steve House who, together with Scott Johnston, will run a Mountain Performance Workshop at St. Gervais close to Chamonix on 19 August 2017.