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Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
The organisers of the Piolets d'Or 2023 have awarded the following climbs: Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts, Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan, and Jugal Spire in Nepal by...
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear...
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen...
Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger
27/09/2023 - Interviews
Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger
Interview with Jakob Schubert after the first ascent of Project Big at Flatanger in Norway last week. The 32-year-old Austrian has now called the climb B.I.G. and suggested the grade 9c. This is currently the third route in the world...
Jakob Schubert frees Project Big, the king line of Flatanger
20/09/2023 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert frees Project Big, the king line of Flatanger
Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has made the first ascent of Project Big at Flatanger. Bolted by Adam Ondra in 2013, the line was defined by the Czech climber as 'the true king line of the cave.'
Aleksandra Miroslaw, Bassa Mawem qualify for Speed Climbing at Paris 2024 Olympic Games
16/09/2023 - Competitions
Aleksandra Miroslaw, Bassa Mawem qualify for Speed Climbing at Paris 2024 Olympic Games
Yesterday at the IFSC Speed European Qualifier in Rome, Italy, Aleksandra Miroslaw from Poland and Bassa Mawem from France secured Speed Climbing spots at the Olympic Games Paris 2024. In the qualifiers Miroslaw set a new world record by stopping...
Greenland 2023: ambitious Mirror Wall attempt abandoned by Cookson, Ditto, Favresse, Villanueva
14/09/2023 - Alpinism
Greenland 2023: ambitious Mirror Wall attempt abandoned by Cookson, Ditto, Favresse, Villanueva
Franco Cookson, Ben Ditto, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva have attempted to forge a new big wall climb on the Mirror Wall in Greenland. As usual the group sailed from Scotland to Greenland. Favresse reports
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of...
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner
30/08/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner
British rock climber James Pearson has repeated The Parthian Shot E10 6c at Burbage South, UK, without the side-runner in the crack on the right. The Brit, no newcomer to hard and dangerous trad ascents, stated after his repeat 'This...
Pete Whittaker frees Eigerdosis, 8c trad crack at Jøssingfjord in Norway
25/08/2023 - Climbing
Pete Whittaker frees Eigerdosis, 8c trad crack at Jøssingfjord in Norway
British rock climber Pete Whittaker has made the first free ascent of the second pitch of 'Eigerdosis' on the Profilveggen / Profile wall at Jøssingfjord in Norway. The previous aid climb is now a trad crack that checks in at...
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
24/08/2023 - Alpinism
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
The report and route topo of 'Utúlie‘n Aurë' (8-/RS3/I), the new multi-pitch first ascended in mid-July on the West Face of Coston d'Averau (Nuvolau, Dolomites) by Czech mountaineers Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka and Anna Coubalová.
Paul Pritchard makes first ascent of 'Jean', first trad lead in 25 years
22/08/2023 - Interviews
Paul Pritchard makes first ascent of 'Jean', first trad lead in 25 years
Interview with British rock climber Paul Pritchard who has made the first ascent of the trad climb 'Jean' in Tasmania. This is Pritchard's first trad lead in 25 years, after his near-fatal fall on the Totem Pole in 1998, and...
Nadine Wallner climbs Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in under 17 hours with Simon Wahli
21/08/2023 - Alpinism
Nadine Wallner climbs Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in under 17 hours with Simon Wahli
On 23 July 2023 Nadine Wallner completed the Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in 16 hours and 20 minutes. The Austrian mountain guide teamed up with her Swiss colleague Simon Wahli for the 3600+ ascent that leads from the Lauterbrunnental to the...
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
19/08/2023 - Alpinism
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
Remembering Ermanno Salvaterra, the great Italian mountaineer of the Brenta Dolomites and Patagonia, who perished yesterday while climbing on Campanile Alto di Brenta.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
18/08/2023 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
At Rhoscolyn on the island of Anglesey in North Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated the E9 trad climb 'Olwen' while her husband James Pearson has repeated the E10 'Prisoners of the sun'.
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route
14/08/2023 - Alpinism
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route
The report by Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who earlier this summer made quick repeats of two hard climbs at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites: Panaroma (8b+, 500m) on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo and the Spanish route on...

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