Melloblocco 2023: a return to its roots

From 4 to 7 May 2023 the highly anticipated Melloblocco bouldering meeting returns to Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy. This is without a shadow of doubt the biggest climbing meeting in the world. The first edition that took place in 2004 laid solid foundations and year in, year out thousands and thousands of climbers took part in what we described back then as "a sort of Woodstock amongst the incredible boulders, green meadows and blue skies in one of the most beautiful valleys in the Alps." After the four-year stop that began in 2019, the event, the coarse granite and the lush valley are ready once again to welcome whoever want to take part. Over 2000 climbers have already said they will, the new website is up and running, and it's now time to find out more directly from the historic Melloblocco driving force, Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti.

Michele, Nicola, Stefano, let's start from the beginning. What exactly is Melloblocco?
It's the international meeting of "Sassisti", of boulderers, as indicated on the poster of the very first edition in 2004. The term "meeting" is the essence: meeting other people from all of Italy and the rest of the world, who share the same love for climbing and mountaineering, the same inclusive and environmentally friendly spirit. Melloblocco is shredding your skin with others, spotting someone you've only just met, meeting up in the evening, chatting in all the languages of the world and, why not, watching some of the world's best in action.

Nice. What about the opposite: what does Melloblocco not want to be?
A list of things to do, problems that need to be sent, experiences to be "consumed" in a rush. Melloblocco doesn't want to teach you how to experience the valley, it doesn't want to tell you which boulders you should send, or what routes you absolutely must climb on the amazing crags dotted across the valley floor or high up in the mountains. Melloblocco doesn't want to tell you what you should do during the day or how you you should spend your evenings, whether in good company or alone on some remote boulder.

So for the benefit of those who have never been to the valley before, can you quickly describe Val di Mello and Val Masino?
It's a small side valley of Valtellina, rugged and deep, dominated by huge granite walls, starting from those at the bottom of the valley called Precipizio degli Asteroidi and Qualido and culminating at the top with the great "cathedrals" Badile and Cengalo... It0s an immense stone garden, painted green thanks to the lush alpine meadows on the valley floor, criss-crossed by clear waters and frothing waterfalls, populated by majestic beech trees. It is a valley where climbing and mountaineering reign supreme, from small boulders to huge cliffs, from friction slabs to powerful cracks and wild overhangs. Nother Nature is the sovereign monach here and the Val di Mello Nature Reserve bears witness to all this. Having said all this, we must realise that this territory is small and that it needs to be treated with care and attention. We must all experience the valley with utmost respect, tread lightly, as if on tiptoes.

What's the formula, the guidelines, for this year?
It is a return to the roots, a meeting for those who love climbing, a meeting not only on the rocks in particular, but in nature in general. Because even the younger generations have the right to explore and learn about what others experienced before them. This return to our roots goes hand in hand with the rediscovery and brushing of many problems climbed in previous editions that are now overgrown with moss and bushes. There's no need to "consume" new areas. The infinite bouldering "park" of Val Masino-Val di Mello already offers a limitless playing field. The formula is always the same: come to the valley during Melloblocco and do what you want. Climb the boulders marked on the map or discover other sectors, flash easy problems or work something harder, perhaps even try one of the "comp" boulder. The only rule is respect the local population and the environment. Everyone working for Melloblocco 2023 is doing a great job and the local community is doing its best to welcome everyone who wants to come here for the event. We'd like to take this opportunity to thank the Municipality of Val Masino, the Tourist Association (which is charge of the organising committee), the local tourist office and everyone from the valley who's cleaning, brushing and preparing the climbing areas.

Speaking of competitions: in the past there have also been many of the world's best, taking part in a sort of "unofficial competition" on rock. Will there be one this year?
There'll be a selection of some difficult "gems" that are worth some prize money. Nothing special, but nevertheless a symbolic recognition for those who manage to send the problems. There were so many champions who have honoured Melloblocco with their presence in the past, mentioning them all would be almost impossible. But their names are on the website melloblocco.it, in the history section, where you'll find names and photos of those who have taken part in previous editions.

At the first Melloblocco, the youngest had just been born. Now almost 20 years have passed. After all these years, what has remained, and what has changed, in the bouldering and in the valley?
Bouldering is no longer a novelty, but a widespread practice that deserves attention, to ensure that it is accompanied with awareness and respect for the places. In the photographic book of the tenth anniversary it was written that Melloblocco knows how to distribute knowledge, but even before that it allows everyone, without distinction, to draw happiness from nature and from large and small landscapes, to rediscover one's own essence, deeper and more worthy, thanks to the encounter with these extraordinary places. Basically nothing has changed, young people can relive the same emotions through the filter of today as those who arrived in the valley in the first 2004 edition. The wonder and ability to be amazed by the nature of Val di Mello are in everyone of us and will always be available to anyone who wants to look for them.

Melloblocco is often described as the biggest climbing and bouldering meeting in the world, with over 6,000 climbers in the valley. Did you expect such a big turnout, and what do you wish for the next meeting?
An attentive, kind, aware participation, as in the past. As far as numbers are concerned, we'll simply be happy if the event is animated by people from all walks of life who come to enjoy the Valley. The best result would be that those who come to the Valley, regardless of how many they are, return home with a smile! In the past it was hard to predict such a successful event, but probably Val Masino and Val di Mello have what it takes to make this climbing meeting a unique experience!

Michele Comi, Nicola Noè, Stefano Scetti

Melloblocco #16 takes place from 4 to 7 May 2023 in Val Masino – Val di Mello. Click here for pre-registration and the program.

SPONSOR MELLOBLOCCO 2023
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