Tokyo 2020 Olympics: women's qualification live today

------------------------------------------------
LIVE - Tokyo Olympics 2020 05/08/2021
------------------------------------------------

15:55
Next up Men's Finals, tomorrow at 10:30 CET. For those who missed it, here's the report of the men's qualfiers.

RESULTS QUALIFICATION COMBINED SPEED, BOULDER, LEAD

15:44
Janja Garnbret seems to struggle, and this is big news. Indeed, it puts into perspectivehow hard this route is and what this immense climbing marathon demands off the athletes. Speed + Boulder + Lead in quick succession, devastating. Having said that, Garnbret conquers (in the true sense of the word) the area full of yellow volumes, but then gets no further and falls off hold 30. It makes no difference though becasue she's through to the Final on Friday. What a monumnetal performance by of Seo Chaehyun, winner with a score of 40+. But also Jessica Pilz, who finished 33+ and Miho Nonaka 30+.

LEAD QUALIFICATION
1) Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 40+
2) Jessica Pilz (AUT) 33+
3) Miho Nonaka (JPN) 30+
4) Janja Garnbret (SLO) 30
5) Viktoriia Meshkova (ROC) 29+
6) Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) 27+
7) Mia Krampl (SLO) 26+
8) Brooke Raboutou (USA) 26+
9) Julia Chanourdie (FRA) 25+
10) Laura Rogora (ITA) 25
11) Kyra Condie (USA) 22+
12) Alannah Yip (CAN) 21+
13) Shauna Coxsey (GBR) 21+
14) Petra Klingler (SUI) 16+
15) Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 16+
16) Oceania Mackenzie (AUS) 15+
17) Iulia Kaplina (ROC) 14+
18) Yiling Song (CHN) 13+
19) Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) 12
20) Erin Sterkenburg (RSA) 7+

15:36
Japan's Akiyo Noguchi seems in no rush. She climbs smootly, breathes calmly. She traverses smootly leftwards, but suddenly drops off hold 27+. There is only one athlete who can reach the top, Janja Garnbret. Her time is now.

15:32
Britain's Shauna Coxsey ends her efforts on hold 21, probably not enough to make the finals. Only two athletes to come though,  Akiyo Noguchi and Janja Garnbret.

15:27
Poland's Aleksandra Miroslaw, Speed winner and last in Boulder, is currently in second. She needs to redeem herslef in Lead . She does the minimum, or maximum, for a pure Speed specialist. She falls low, on hold 12; it might just be enough for her to go on to the final.

15:23
Miho Nonaka starts from provisional 6th, she can’t afford to make a mistake, she needs to play it safe. She tries to rest as much as possible; she hasn’t got the top in sight, all she want is to climb high enough to qualify. Banking on all her technique and strength she powers to hold 30+. Not bad at all, this places her provisional 3rd. And importantly, she’s qualified for Friday’s final  together with Chaehyun Seo, Brooke Raboutou and Jessica Pilz

15:18
Switzerland's Petra Klingler draws on all her immense power for this route, but it doens't suffice. She falls low, off hold 16.

15:14
Now it’s time for Brooke Raboutou. So far she’s climbed superbly and currently sits in provisional 3rd afterSpeed and Boulder. It’s no secret: she’s a class act. Climbing is in her genes,  her parents were champions of this sport. But Brooke is here today for no one but herslef. She struggles like the others before her, but her moves are more controlled. But the route saps strength slowly but surely. The American grits her teeth on the terrible traverse, but falls off hold 26. Pending official confirmation, the first names of those who have qualified have been announced by the speaker: Chaehyun Seo and Brooke Raboutou.

15:07
It's hard to see a route dominated right from the outset. And Jessica Pilz makes no exception, the Austrian battles hard to climb through the first half. On the traverse the 2018 Lead World Champion surpasses herself. And enters the zone of yellow holds, climbing to 33+ before dropping off. Provisional second, after giving all she had.

15:02
Anouck Jaubert is the 12th athlete out. Provisoonal 4th after Speed and Boulder, she struggles right from the outset. She pulls out all the stops, but falls off hold 16+ . Seo Chaehyun's astounding performance is only beginning to sink in!

14.57
South Korea’s Seo Chaehyun immediately demonstrates her Olympic nerves. She climbs slowly but surely. Halfway up she easily traverses across the huge volumes, manages to recover, stick the undercut and breach Meshkova’s highpoint. And then she powers upwards, ever upwards, before falling just below the top, off hold 40+. Provisional first.

14:50
Julia Chanourdie flexes her muscles. The Frenchwoman knows she has to do well, and powers quickly through the first section. Before becoming unstuck on the huge undercut on hold 25+.

14:45
Mia Krampl (SLO) climbs with power and control, she seems more in control than the others. But the route is extreme, and she falls slightly over halfway, off hold 26+. She's ahead of Rogora and behind leader Meshkova.

14:41
Iuliia Kaplina, Speed specialist, battles hard. And falls off 14+, before smiling and sending a kiss home. From Japan with love. 

14:37
Kyra Condie (USA) 22+. The route is showing its teeth, it's extremely tough. And the athletes are certainly tired from the previous two rounds. We'll see how the best Lead specialists fare, above all Garnbret.

14:34
Laura struggles, makes mistakes. But somehow battles her way ever upwards, never gives up. Rarely have we seen a battle like this one, before falling off hold 25. Provisional second.

14:26
Yiling Song (CHN) falls off 13+, the Chinese is cetainly more at ease at Speed. All eyes now on Lead specialist Laura Rogora.

14:23
Canada's Alannah Yip climbs composed, as per usual, but then falls from hold 21+. Which indicates that perhaps Meshkova has produced an important run.

14:20
Oceania Mackenzie falls far lower than she's capable of, from 15+. Still no real indication as to how hard the route is.

14:15
It's now time for Meshkova, the revelations of the European championships in Moscow. The route seems burly, the Russian climbs decisively, then falls from the 31st hold.

14:12
20-year-old Erin Sterkenburg takes the stage. And makes a mistake almost immediately, on hold 7+ before entering the heart of route, ending her Olympic debut prematurely.

14:00
The time has come for the final hurdle, the extenuating Lead. Currently the athletes are out in the Stadium observing the route, they've got 6 minutes to work out how it's down. In the meantime it's 21:00 in Tokyo, night has fallen.

-------
LEAD
-------

13:10
Here's the updated Combined result. Just one more event to go, Lead in just under an hour, at 14:00 CET. Stay tuned.

13:08
Garnbret show! The Slovenian is impeccable on #4, too. At the most important moment of all, she produces perfection. 4 tops, all flash. Here are the Boulder results:

BOULDER QUALIFICATION
1 Janja Garnbret (SLO) 4T4z 4 4
2 Brooke Raboutou (USA) 3T4z 4 4
3 Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) 3T4z 5 4
4 Shauna Coxsey (GBR) 2T4z 3 4
5 Chaehyun Seo (KOR) 2T4z 5 5
6 Viktoriia Meshkova (ROC) 2T4z 8 5
7 Laura Rogora (ITA) 1T4z 1 5
8 Miho Nonaka (JPN) 1T3z 2 3
9 Jessica Pilz (AUT) 1T3z 3 5
10 Petra Klingler (SUI) 1T3z 3 8
11 Kyra Condie (USA) 1T3z 4 5
12 Oceania Mackenzie (AUS) 1T2z 3 2
13 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 1T1z 4 1
14 Mia Krampl (SLO) 0T4z 0 5
15 Julia Chanourdie (FRA) 0T3z 0 9
16 Alannah Yip (CAN) 0T2z 0 2
17 Erin Sterkenburg (RSA) 0T1z 0 1
18 Iuliia Kaplina (ROC) 0T1z 0 2
19 Yiling Song (CHN) 0T1z 0 5
20 Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) 0T0z 0 0

13:04
Noguchi rises to the occasion on #4: footless moves lead magically to the top. Provisional second. Only Garnbret missing now.

13:01
Shauna Coxsey is competing in her last competition, too; after the Olympics the British ace will stop competing. He she's been exceptional and she ends her round with 2 tops and 4 zones. Currently she lies in thrid place.

12:57
Ganbret is performing a bouldering masterclass. She flashes #3. Three out of three, all flash. No words needed.

12:54
Noguchi sends #3, the problem that only Rogora had sent previously. The Italian slips to 7th place. For the Japanese this is a hugely important top.

12:47
Noguchi is in trouble on #2, she touches but fails to stick the top. Ganbret has often been described as the greates female climber of all times. And she proves why on #2, flashing it with ease in just a few seconds. Two down, two to go!

12:39
20-year-old Brooke Raboutou leaves her mark on #4, sending it masterfully. She's the first to do so and she is now top of the leaderboard with 3 tops and 4 zones. What a great, great performance!

12:38
22-year-old Slovenian Janja Garnbret absolutely regal on #1. Flash.

12:33
Über champion Akiyo Noguchi makes her entry. She's announced she'll retire from competitons after the Olympics, but in the meantime she waltzes up slab #1 second go.

12:28
Seo fails to send #4 and finishes her round with 2 tops and 4 zones. Mackenzie fails on #3, sent so far only by Laura Rogora.

12:19
Petra Klingler (SUI) sends #1 third go, while Raboutou eases her way up #2.  The American is on fire. Japan's Miho Nonaka needs just two goes for #1. The competition is heating up.

12:05
Austria's Jessica Pilz, France's Jaubert and America's Brooke Raboutou all send boulder #1.

11:54
17-year-old South Korean athlete Seo needs just three attempts to send #1

11:48
Laura Rogara flashes #3 with immense grit. She's back in the game!

11:47
At present the Boulder specialists are still not out and only Miroslaw has managed to send #2. Boulder #1 has been climbed 3 times, by Miroslaw, followed by the Australia's Mackenzie and America's Condie. Perhpas it's not quite as easy as it first appeared.

11:37
America's Kyra Condie sends #1. She's the third to do so after Meshkova and Mackenzie. Meshkov ends her round with a zone on #4 after narrowly missing the top. 2 tops and 4 zones, the best so far.

11:32
While Meshkova fails to send #3, Laura Rogora enters the comp. She’s not at her ease with running jumps and searches for a static solution, but fails. Her frustration is evident. But she can make up for it on the next 3 problems.

11:20
Meshkova tops #2 in a mere 2 attempts. The Russian was 15th in Speed and if she continues like this she'll be a strong contender for the finals.

11:17
Australia's Oceania Mackenzie sends #1. It's highly likely that the slab will be climbed by many, and that the numer of attemps will be decisive in the final ranking.

11:11
Erin Sterkenburg reaches the zone, Viktoriia Meshkova with 28 seconds left reaches the top. What a great start for the Russian. We'll soon see if this start is feasible for many.

-------------------
BOULDER 11:00
-------------------
It's time for boulder. Balance, coordination, strength. And lots of patience. Just like yesterday the round begins with the slab on the left.

10:40
SPEED RESULTS
1 A. Miroslaw (POL)
2 A. Jaubert (FRA)
3 Song Y. (CHN)
4 Nonaka M. (JPN)
5 I. Kaplina (ROC)
6 A. Yip (JPN)
7 K. Condie (USA)
8 J. Chanourdie (FRA)
9 Noguchi A. (JPN)
10 P. Klingler (SUI)
11 J. Pilz (AUT)
12 B. Raboutou (USA)
13 O. Mackenzie (AUS)
14 J. Garnbret (SLO)
15 V. Meshkova (ROC)
16 S. Coxsey (GBR)
17 Seo C. (KOR)
18 M. Krampl (SLO)
19 L. Rogora (ITA)
20 E. Sterkenburg (RSA)

10:38
An important second round, to say the least. Aleksandra Miroslaw stops the clock after 6.97, just shy of the world recor, but nevertheless it's the first Olympic record. Rogora falls and keeps her time of 10.50. Excellent Noguchi in 8.27, but above all it's a disappointing second run for Janja Garnbret, she slips again and stops the clock after 9.4 seconds. 14th, she is not happy at all. She, and all the others, will try to make amends in the Boulder in less than 20 minutes, and then the Lead.

10:18
At the end of the first round Laura Rogorais 18th, Janja Garnbret slips and is 17. The top three after the first round of heats are as follows:
1 A. MIROSLAW 7.01
2 A. JAUBERT 7.29
3 I. KAPLINA 7.65

10:15
Aleksandra Miroslaw sends in 7.01, close to the world record. Provisional first. Also because the world's fastest, Iuliia Kaplina, is slower 7.65, third. Noguchi one of the favourites needs 8.23, seventh.

10:10
Miho Nonaka stops the clock after 7.74, hughely impressive, while Laura Rogora needs 10.5 seconds to send the 15m route.

10:06
It's hot in Tokyo, but Speed kicks off with 18-year-old Erin Sterkenburg and 17-year-old Chaehyun Seo. Their aim is to set the fastst time. Both slip, but Seo wins. Anouck Jaubert sets a personal best against Viktoriia Meshkova

SPEED
Welcome back to our running commentary of the second day of sport climbing at the Olympics. The day is packed full with the women’s Olympic qualifiers and if yesterday is anything to go by, today will be just as exciting.

Yesterday the following eight athletes qualified for their finals on Thursday: Mickael Mawem (FRA), Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), Colin Duffy (USA), Jakob Schubert (AUT), Adam Ondra (CZE), Alberto Ginés López (ESP), Bassa Mawem (FRA), Nathaniel Coleman (USA).

Bassa Mawem’s participation is in doubt though since right at the start of the Lead event he injured his bicep. The IFSC issued a statement saying that"an update on his condition will be given in the morning once he has been assessed by his medical team."

According to New York Times reporter John Branch who spoke to the IFSC, were Bassa Mawem to retire, he would finish 8th and the Finals would be carried out with 7 athletes. No 1 seed Bassa Mawem is pitted against No. 8 seed Adam Ondra, and should Mawem retire Ondra would advance to the speed semifinal and be assured at least 4th place. That's a huge advantage.

The IFSC has not commented on this and we will obviously keep you posted on developments. In the meantime, the women’s action kicks off at 10:00 am CET, stay tuned.

THE ATHLETES
1 Janja Garnbret (SLO)
2 Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
3 Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
4 Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL)
5 Miho Nonaka (JPN)
6 Petra Klingler (SUI)
7 Brooke Raboutou (USA)
8 Jessica Pilz (AUT)
9 Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
10 Chaehyun Seo (KOR)
11 Julia Chanourdie (FRA)
12 Mia Krampl (SLO)
13 Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)
14 Kyra Condie (USA)
15 Laura Rogora (ITA)
16 Yiling Song (CHN)
17 Alannah Yip (CAN)
18 Oceania Mackenzie (AUS)
19 Viktoriia Meshkova (RUS)
20 Erin Sterkenburg (RSA)