Shauna Coxsey, Keita Watabe, Iuliia Kaplina, Reza Alipourshenazandifar win Nanjing stage of Boulder & Speed World Cup

Japanese athletes dominated the Bouldering World Cup once again, with 3 + 3 athletes from the land of the rising sun qualifying for the last round. Problem #1 proved practically impossible for all except Shauna Coxsey who sent it first go, and obviously also for Janja Garnbret who, as yet in her short and brilliant career, has never missed a senior finals. Thanks to an extraordinary flash the Slovenian immediately took the lead, but on problem #2 Coxsey - a huge dyno followed by shoulder press to match on an undercling top - displayed her class flashing it effortlessly. Miho Nonaka sent it 4th go while, with just 12 seconds to go the clock suddenly reset itself while Mei Kotake was about to match the top. A technical incident was called and after a short break the Japanese climber was given another 2 minutes to complete the problem, but although getting heartbreakingly close she failed to top out. Garnbret sent this problem 4th go to take the lead once again. Problem #3 proved decisive: Coxsey needed four goes to match the top and, under pressure for the first time, Garnbret failed and didn’t even manage to reach the bonus zone. This lead to the final problem which, for Coxsey, proved a mere formality. The Brit took her second victory this year while Garnbret settled for second; there can be no doubt that the duel between these two will continue for the rest of the season. Mio Nonaka took third, ahead of a surprising Jain Kim, the queen of lead competitions, who on the final problem executed a textbook figure-of-four to beat Aya Onoe and the unfortunate Mei Kotake, fifth and sixth respectively.

Tomoa Narasaki qualified last for the men’s final yet he sent problem #1 third go, matched only by his teammate Keita Watabe who needed one attempt more. Jernej Kruder flashed problemi #2, where Narasaki was only awarded with the bonus hold as he fell going for the top after having made the lower section look like a walk in the part. Watabe piled on the pressure by topping out second go. Kruder, on fighting form like never before in a World Cup, sent problem #3 fourth go, Watabe made a beginners mistake (he didn’t match both feet on the enormous starting hold) but kept his never and sent it second go, as did Narasaki. These provisional results meant that these three were all assured a medal prior to attempting problem #4, as Jongwon Chon, Manuel Cornu and Rei Sugimoto had simply made too little headway on the earlier blocs. Kruder failed to top out on the last problem and settled for third - unbelievably this is his first-ever World Cup podium - Narasaki powered to the top to finish second while Watabe, after claiming bronze at Meiringen placing 4th at Chongqing - flashed the last problem to win his first stage of a Bouldering World Cup.

The second stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Russia’s Iuliia Kaplina and Iran’s Reza Alipourshenazandifar. In the women’s final Kaplina beat her teammate Mariia Krasavina while Anouck Jaubert got the better of Anna Tsyganova to win third place. In the men’s event Aleksandr Shikov fell and handed victory to Alipourshenazandifar, while Vladislav Devlin beat Bassa Mawem in the battle for third place. Both Kaplina and Alipourshenazandifa set a new world record: the Russian stopped the clock after 7.38 to beat the record she set at Chongqing last week, while the 2014 men’s record of 5.60, set in 2014 by Danyil Boldyrev, was whittled down to 5.48 seconds.

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Nanjing (CHN) 2017
Boulder Men
1 Keita Watabe JPN 4t9 4b8
2 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 3t6 4b7
3 Jernej Kruder SLO 2t5 3b5
4 Jongwon Chon KOR 1t1 3b8
5 Manuel Cornu FRA 0t 3b3
6 Rei Sugimoto JPN 0t 3b4
7 Jan Hojer GER
8 David Firnenburg GER
9 Tsukuru Hori JPN
10 Vadim Timonov RUS
11 Meichi Narasaki JPN
11 Kokoro Fujii JPN
13 Rolands Rugens LAT
14 Nathan Phillips GBR
15 Kai Harada JPN
16 Riccardo Piazza ITA
17 Tyler Landman GBR
18 Sean Mccoll CAN
19 Sergii Topishko UKR
20 Alfons Dornauer AUT
21 Jeremy Bonder FRA
21 Yuji Fujiwaki JPN
23 Rustam Gelmanov RUS
23 Alban Levier FRA
23 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS
26 Martin Stranik CZE
27 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
27 Nicolas Pelorson FRA
29 Gholamali Baratzadeh IRI
29 Georg Parma AUT
31 Austin Geiman USA
31 Alex Khazanov ISR
33 Bjørn Arnel Iisager DEN
33 Mickael Mawem FRA
35 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
35 Domen Skofic SLO
37 Jj Mah CAN
37 Jakob Schubert AUT
39 Andrzej Mecherzynski- Wiktor POL
39 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS
41 Zhouwen Huang CHN
41 Clément Lechaptois FRA
43 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
43 Ka-Chun Yau HKG
45 Chua Dennis SGP
45 Jabee Kim KOR
47 Sebastien Lazure CAN
47 Kaito Watanabe JPN
49 Chi-Fung Au HKG
49 Haibin Qu CHN
51 Asher Gavin Chiam Kai Chen SGP
51 Jakub Jodlowski POL
53 Alexey Molchanov KAZ
53 Yufei Pan CHN
53 Pol Roca Lopez ESP
56 Sergio Pastor Martínez ESP
57 Yongcheng Liu CHN
57 Siu-Hei Tang HKG
59 Amir Nouri IRI
59 Sergio Verdasco Urizal ESP
61 Ilari Juho Kelloniemi FIN
61 Sungbo Seo KOR
63 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
63 Hakeem Kasban SGP
65 Cheung- Chi Shoji Chan HKG
65 Alexey Panfilov KAZ
67 Kentin Boulay FRA
67 Chun-Hsiang Wang TPE
69 Orrin Coley GBR
69 Artyom Devyaterikov KAZ
71 Vlas Gavrilov RUS
71 Dichong Huang CHN
71 Elan Jonasmcrae CAN
71 Hei-Yeung Lam HKG
71 Yongsu Lee KOR
71 Guy Lifshitz ISR
71 Wan Tong Lok MAC
71 Mohammadamin Yazdizad IRI
79 Sadra Torkamanbout. IRI
80 Saeed Safari IRI
81 Wan I Lo MAC
82 Jake Tiger CAN
83 Tsun-Ting Ip HKG

Boulder Women
1 Shauna Coxsey GBR 4t12 4b12
2 Janja Garnbret SLO 3t7 3b7
3 Miho Nonaka JPN 2t6 4b15
4 Jain Kim KOR 1t5 2b11
5 Aya Onoe JPN 0t 3b8
6 Mei Kotake JPN 0t 1b3
7 Katja Kadic SLO
8 Anna Stöhr AUT
9 Petra Klingler SUI
10 Stasa Gejo SRB
11 Michaela Tracy GBR
12 Fanny Gibert FRA
13 Akiyo Noguchi JPN
14 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
15 Monika Retschy GER
15 Chloe Caulier BEL
17 Sol Sa KOR
18 Megan Mascarenas USA
18 Sierra Blair-Coyle USA
18 Maëlys Agrapart FRA
21 Lisa Chulich USA
21 Alannah Yip CAN
23 Elnaz Rekabi IRI
23 Lamu Renqing CHN
25 Andrea Kümin SUI
25 Hung Ying Lee TPE
27 Flavy Cohaut FRA
27 Tamara Kuznetsova KAZ
29 Rong Jiang CHN
29 Katharina Posch AUT
31 Manon Hily FRA
31 Valeri Kremer ISR
33 Leah Crane GBR
33 Anna Tsyganova RUS
35 Di Niu CHN
35 Vanessa Si Yinn Teng SGP
37 Lilli Kiesgen GER
37 Katrine Vandet Salling DEN
39 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
39 Margaryta Zakharova UKR
41 Katarzyna Ekwinska POL
41 Zhuoma Pubu CHN
43 Seunghyun Kim KOR
43 Wangmu Renzeng CHN
45 Kseniia Melnykova UKR
45 Mingxin, Judith Sim SGP
47 Seohyun Kim KOR
47 Pui-Yim Lau HKG
49 Jiyeon Jeon KOR
49 Saedasom Jung KOR

Speed Men
1 Reza Alipourshenazandifar IRI 5.54
2 Aleksandr Shikov RUS fall
3 Vladislav Deulin RUS 5.79
4 Bassa Mawem FRA 5.82
5 Leonardo Gontero ITA
6 Danyil Boldyrev UKR
7 Qixin Zhong CHN
8 Libor Hroza CZE
9 Aleksandr Shilov RUS
10 Ludovico Fossali ITA
11 Arsenii Bogomolov RUS
12 Georgy Artamonov RUS
13 Stanislav Kokorin RUS
14 Kostiantyn Pavlenko UKR
15 Alessandro Santoni ITA
16 Marcin Dzienski POL
17 Jinxin Li CHN
18 Amir Maimuratov KAZ
19 Fengqi Wang CHN
20 Penghui Lin CHN
21 Yongsu Lee KOR
22 Zhixuan Chen CHN
23 Dichong Huang CHN
24 Alimzhan Myrzabekov KAZ
25 Yufei Pan CHN
26 Alexey Molchanov KAZ
27 Artyom Devyaterikov KAZ
28 Andrey Yurin KAZ
29 Alexey Panfilov KAZ
30 Shuangxi Mo CHN
31 Sungbo Seo KOR
32 Sean Mccoll CAN
33 Chi-Fung Au HKG
34 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
35 Sergio Verdasco Urizal ESP
36 Sergio Pastor Martínez ESP
37 Pol Roca Lopez ESP
38 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
39 Jabee Kim KOR
40 Elan Jonasmcrae CAN

Speed Women
1 Iuliia Kaplina RUS 7.38
2 Mariia Krasavina RUS 8.10
3 Anouck Jaubert FRA 8.17
4 Anna Tsyganova RUS fall
5 Alla Marenych UKR
6 Edyta Ropek POL
7 Aurelia Sarisson FRA
8 Elena Markusheva RUS
9 Anna Brozek POL
10 Klaudia Buczek POL
11 Di Niu CHN
12 Mingwei Ni CHN
13 Yiling Song CHN
14 Cuilian He CHN
15 Assel Marlenova KAZ
16 Wangmu Renzeng CHN
17 Seohyun Kim KOR
18 Tamara Kuznetsova KAZ
19 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
20 Andrea Kümin SUI
21 Alannah Yip CAN
22 Saedasom Jung KOR