Shauna Coxsey and Kokoro Fuji win Bouldering World Cup 2017 debut at Meiringen

After the furore following the International Federation of Sport Climbing’s decision to render competition live streaming pay to watch, and after the subsequent partial retractment which granted free viewing of the first comp in 2017, when all things were finally said and done some fine bouldering went down at Meiringen in Switzerland.

The first stage was won neatly by British climber Shauna Coxsey who immediately took up from where she had left off at the end of 2016. Despite shoulder surgery a few months ago Coxsey dominated the comp, send all four problems in the final. Katharina Saurwein produced her best-ever World Cup performance to send two problems and finish second, while Miho Nonaka sent one problem to finish third. Serbia’s Stasa Gejo finished just ahead of reigning World Champion and crowd-favourite Petra Klinger, and all three were separated by the number of attempts needed to send their lone top. Slovenian champion Janja Garnbret evidently failed to find the right flow in the final and concluded her run with not tops and just two bonuses.

In the men’s event three Japanese athletes qualified for the final, giving further demonstration of the breadth and talent of this team. The stage was won by 2016 World Cup runner up Kokoro Fujii, who beat Russia’s Aleksei Rubtsov and his two teammates Keita Watabe and Rei Sugimoto, third and fourth respectively. All four athletes suffered in the final, set maybe a little too difficult being the results (and definitely far too hot - it was rumoured to be 25/26°C in the arena). All sent just one problem and they were separated by the number of tries needed to reach the top. Slovenia’s Jernej Kruder finished fifth, Germany’s David Firnenburg (Juniors winner at the European Youth Championships in Arco in 2014) finished sixth. It’s worth highlighting Gabriele Moroni’s remarkable performance: after a remarkable comeback in the semis, he was first excluded from the final due to just one bonus attempt.

The next stage of the Bouldering World Cup will be held on 22 and 23 April in Chongqing in China. In the meantime, the IFSC has announced it will continue discussions this week about how to proceed with the prickly live streaming issue.


MALE
1 Kokoro Fujii JPN 1t1 3b6
2 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 1t2 2b8
3 Keita Watabe JPN 1t3 2b12
4 Rei Sugimoto JPN 1t5 3b7
5 Jernej Kruder SLO 0t 2b3
6 David Firnenburg GER 0t 1b4
7 Gabriele Moroni ITA
8 Rolands Rugens LAT
9 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
10 Sergii Topishko UKR
11 Nicolas Pelorson FRA
12 Jongwon Chon KOR
13 Jan Hojer GER
14 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS
15 Gholamali Baratzadeh IRI
16 Mickael Mawem FRA
17 Manuel Cornu FRA
17 Martin Stranik CZE
19 Meichi Narasaki JPN
20 Thilo Jeldrik Schröter NOR
21 Yuki Hada JPN
21 Tomoa Narasaki JPN
23 Jeremy Bonder FRA
23 Jakob Schubert AUT
25 Leo Avezou FRA
25 Eric Lopez Mateos ESP
27 Tsukuru Hori JPN
27 Simon Lorenzi BEL
29 Kai Harada JPN
29 Domen Skofic SLO
31 Anze Peharc SLO
31 Gregor Vezonik SLO
33 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
33 Nathan Phillips GBR
35 Austin Geiman USA
35 William Ridal GBR
37 Sean Mccoll CAN
37 Simon Unger GER
39 Rob Denayer BEL
39 Florian Klingler AUT
41 Yuji Fujiwaki JPN
41 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
43 Vlas Gavrilov RUS
43 Shawn Raboutou USA
45 Marcello Bombardi ITA
45 Daniel Woods USA
47 Kim Marschner GER
47 Riccardo Piazza ITA
49 Elias Iagnemma ITA
49 Tyler Landman GBR
51 Moritz Hans GER
51 Baptiste Ometz SUI
53 Clément Lechaptois FRA
53 Alessandro Palma ITA
55 Kipras Baltrunas LTU
55 Max Prinz GER
57 Matthew Cousins GBR
57 Rustam Gelmanov RUS
59 Anthony Gullsten FIN
59 Kevin Heiniger SUI
61 Georg Parma AUT
61 Jorg Verhoeven NED
63 Martin Bergant SLO
63 Benjamin Blaser SUI
65 Orrin Coley GBR
65 Josh Larson USA
67 Jan Chvala CZE
67 Hamed Heydaridolabi IRI
69 Alex Khazanov ISR
69 Nikola Petrov BUL
71 Matthias Erber AUT
71 Jakub Jodlowski POL
73 Jan-Luca Posch AUT
73 Zan Sudar SLO
75 Arnaud Ansion BEL
75 Jerome González Gutiérrez ESP
77 Hannes Puman SWE
77 Sergei Skorodumov RUS
79 Christoph Hanke GER
79 Max Rudigier AUT
81 Obed Hardmeier SUI
81 Marco Müller SUI
83 Lukas Franckaert BEL
83 Andrzej Mecherzynski- Wiktor POL
85 Lukas Geukens BEL
85 Dimitri Vogt SUI
87 Bjørn Arnel Iisager DEN
87 Soma Strommer HUN
89 Kristoffer Lindbäck SWE
89 Stepan Stranik CZE
91 Borna Cujic CRO
91 Elias Weiler AUT
93 Miloš Němý SVK
93 Martin Penkov BUL
95 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
95 Kevin Huser SUI
97 Giuliano Cameroni SUI
97 Jan Jeliga CZE
99 Balázs Bajusz HUN
99 Piotr Bunsch POL
99 Hakeem Kasban SGP
102 David Barrans GBR
103 Sascha Lehmann SUI
103 Zach Richardson CAN
105 Theis Lindegren Elfenbein DEN
105 Thomas Holm Blaabjerg DEN
107 Karlo Čubrić CRO
107 Ilari Juho Kelloniemi FIN
107 Krešimir Morić CRO
110 Hossein Familrohani IRI
111 Vladislav Angelov BUL
111 Charalampos Gemenetzi CYP
111 Gaëtan Massonnet SUI
114 Mikel Asier Linacisoro Molina ESP
115 Charlie Schreiber USA

FEMALE
1 Shauna Coxsey GBR 4t10 4b8
2 Katharina Saurwein AUT 2t6 3b13
3 Miho Nonaka JPN 1t2 3b6
4 Stasa Gejo SRB 1t3 3b3
5 Petra Klingler SUI 1t3 2b3
6 Janja Garnbret SLO 0t 2b4
7 Michaela Tracy GBR
8 Fanny Gibert FRA
9 Sol Sa KOR
10 Andrea Kümin SUI
11 Manon Hily FRA
12 Hannah Meul GER
13 Alma Bestvater GER
14 Mei Kotake JPN
15 Chloe Caulier BEL
16 Katja Kadic SLO
17 Hung Ying Lee TPE
18 Sierra Blair-Coyle USA
19 Vita Lukan SLO
20 Megan Mascarenas USA
21 Lisa Chulich USA
21 Akiyo Noguchi JPN
23 Johanna Holfeld GER
23 Giorgia Tesio ITA
25 Lilli Kiesgen GER
25 Katharina Posch AUT
27 Leah Crane GBR
27 Elnaz Rekabi IRI
29 Margaux Pucheux FRA
29 Monika Retschy GER
31 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
31 Julija Kruder SLO
33 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI
33 Elena Krasovskaia RUS
35 Andrea Ebner ITA
35 Aya Onoe JPN
37 Maëlys Agrapart FRA
37 Margo Hayes USA
37 Franziska Sterrer AUT
40 Hannah Schubert AUT
41 Natalie Bärtschi SUI
41 Hannah Midtboe NOR
43 Daria Malysheva RUS
43 Anna Stöhr AUT
43 Sofya Yokoyama SUI
46 Jara Späte SUI
47 Johanna Färber AUT
47 Mie (Marie Therese) Kastet NOR
49 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR
49 Ida Kups POL
51 Anna Margolina RUS
51 Katrine Vandet Salling DEN
53 Katrin Amann SWE
53 Annalisa De Marco ITA
53 Julia Pinggera AUT
56 Yuliya Keremedchieva BUL
57 Joanne Brinkmann SUI
57 Valeri Kremer ISR
59 Nadja Pfister SUI
59 Anouk Piola SUI
61 Rut Casas Mur ESP
61 Kajsa Rosen SWE
63 Frederike Fell GER
63 Giulia Medici ITA
63 Anastasija Teriochina LTU
66 Michelle Kim Theisen DEN
67 Katarzyna Ekwinska POL
67 Yael Taub ISR
67 Alise Zvigule LAT
70 Athena Bigvand IRI
71 Sunniva Eik Haave NOR
71 Tara Hayes GBR
71 Nóra Király HUN
74 Stella Plantin SWE
75 Nasim Biyarjomandy IRI
75 Ana-Maria Zaharia ROU
77 Elfe Claes BEL
77 Petya Garbova BUL