Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert victorious in Villars

No rest for the wicked: after last weekend’s first stage of the Lead World Cup and the fourth stage of the Speed World Cup ​​at Villars in Switzerland the international circuit is back in action today at Chamonix in France.

After the long winter break indefatigable Jakob Schubert celebrated his impressive milestone of 20 World Cup wins by beating 2017 Lead World Cup winner Romain Desgranges. Both reached the 38th hold and the two were separated by countback, as the Frenchman had fallen one hold lower in the semis. Bouldering World Champion Tomoa Narasaki occupied third place on the podium; the Japanese is more accustomed to podiums after short and intense comps instead than ones with a rope. Narasaki fell off the same hold as Italy’s Stefano Ghisolfi and the judges had to examine Friday’s qualifiers to split the two. Talking of qualifiers, Francesco Vettorata couldn’t have got off to a worse start. After reaching the same hold as Ghisolfi on route 1, on route 2 he experienced every athletes’ nightmare by slipping of the first foothold…

In the women's competition Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret dictated the pace, both in the semifinals and in the final, climbing two holds higher than Austria’s Jessica Pilz who seems to be improving significantly from one season to the next. Veteran Jain Kim placed third ahead of France’s Manon Hily, the Japanese trio Akiyo Noguchi, Miho Nonaka and Mei Kotake, and America’s Ashima Shiraishi.

Villars also hosted the fourth stage of the Speed ​​World Cup, won by Anouck Jaubert and Aleksandr Shikov who beat team-mates Victoire Andrier and Aleksandr Shilov. Mariia Krasavina and Danyil Boldyrev won the small finals and took bronze, beating YiLing Song and Bassa Mawem respectively.

The Lead and Speed ​​World Cup continues today in Chamonix, with the Speed ​​finals tonight and the Lead semifinals and finals tomorrow, also in live streaming.

Lead male
1 Jakob Schubert AUT 38+
2 Romain Desgranges FRA 38+
3 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 33+
4 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 33+
5 Max Rudigier AUT 32+
6 Hyunbin Min KOR 22+
7 Domen Skofic SLO 22+
8 Yuki Hada JPN 22+
9 Alexander Megos GER
10 Kokoro Fujii JPN
11 Hannes Puman SWE
12 Shuta Tanaka JPN
13 Loïc Timmermans BEL
14 Minoru Nakano JPN
15 Luka Potocar SLO
16 Taisei Homma JPN
17 Sascha Lehmann SUI
18 Yannick Flohé GER
19 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
20 Gautier Supper FRA
21 Georg Parma AUT
22 Hanwool Kim KOR
23 Jan Hojer GER
24 Thomas Joannes FRA
25 Kai Lightner USA
26 Jernej Kruder SLO
27 Martin Bergant SLO
28 Arsène Duval FRA
29 Kai Harada JPN
30 Sean Bailey USA
31 Hidemasa Nishida JPN
32 Jorg Verhoeven NED
33 William Bosi GBR
33 Mikhail Chernikov RUS
33 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS
36 Francesco Vettorata ITA
37 Filip Schenk ITA
38 Dimitri Vogt SUI
39 Marcello Bombardi ITA
40 Yuval Shemla ISR
41 Simon Lorenzi BEL
42 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
42 Rudolph Ruana USA
44 Vladislav Shevchenko RUS
45 Sangwon Son KOR
46 Fedir Samoilov UKR
47 Nimrod Marcus ISR
48 HaiBin Qu CHN
49 Rustam Gelmanov RUS
50 Obed Hardmeier SUI
51 Milan Preskar SLO
52 James Pope GBR
53 Nicolas Collin BEL
54 Lucas Uchida CAN
55 Florian Klingler AUT
56 Marco Müller SUI
57 Stephane Hanssens BEL
58 Campbell Harrison AUS
59 Jakub Konecny CZE
60 Christoph Hanke GER
61 Philipp Martin GER
62 Josh Levin USA
63 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
64 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
65 Maciej Dobrzanski POL
66 Martin Tekles GER
67 Vojtech Trojan CZE
68 Szymon Pecikiewicz POL
69 Timothy Kang USA
70 Keita Dohi JPN
70 Jerome González Gutiérrez ESP
72 Stefano Carnati ITA
73 Sven Lempereur BEL
74 Dylan Chuat SUI
75 Sébastien Berthe BEL
76 Eric Lopez Mateos ESP
77 Cesar Grosso BRA
78 YuFei Pan CHN
79 Sergii Topishko UKR
80 Bittor Esparta Frade ESP
81 Sergio Pastor Martínez ESP
82 Or Miniely ISR
83 Tom Gauquelin FRA
84 Tomas Binter CZE
85 Nao Monchois FRA
86 Philipp Geisenhoff SUI
87 Ruben Firnenburg GER
88 Julien Clémence SUI
89 Galo Hernandez ECU
90 Carlos Granja ECU
91 Stefan Bednar SVK

Lead female
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 44+
2 Jessica Pilz AUT 42
3 Jain Kim KOR 41+
4 Manon Hily FRA 36+
5 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 35+
6 Miho Nonaka JPN 32+
7 Mei Kotake JPN 31+
8 Ashima Shiraishi USA 31+
9 Tjasa Kalan SLO
9 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI
9 Vita Lukan SLO
12 Julia Chanourdie FRA
13 Aya Onoe JPN
14 Mia Krampl SLO
15 Julia Fiser AUT
16 Hannah Schubert AUT
17 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR
18 Futaba Ito JPN
19 Mina Markovic SLO
20 Christine Schranz AUT
21 Michelle Hulliger SUI
22 Yuki Hiroshige JPN
23 Seuran Han KOR
24 Stasa Gejo SRB
25 Petra Klingler SUI
26 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
27 Anak Verhoeven BEL
28 Katharina Posch AUT
29 Mathilde Becerra FRA
30 Magdalena Röck AUT
31 Ekaterina Kipriianova RUS
32 Salomé Romain FRA
33 Nikki Van Bergen NED
34 Katherine Choong SUI
35 Zoé Egli SUI
35 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
37 LaMu Renqing CHN
38 Nolwen Berthier FRA
39 Minseon Kim KOR
40 Urska Repusic SLO
41 Lana Skusek SLO
42 Elena Krasovskaia RUS
43 Giorgia Tesio ITA
44 Silvia Cassol ITA
45 Nolwenn Arc FRA
45 Hung Ying Lee TPE
47 Claudia Ghisolfi ITA
48 Laura Rogora ITA
49 Emily Phillips GBR
50 Jara Späte SUI
51 Erina Miura JPN
52 Heloïse Doumont BEL
53 Alma Bestvater GER
54 Sofya Yokoyama SUI
55 Chloe Caulier BEL
56 Celine Cuypers BEL
57 Evgeniia Malamid RUS
58 Rebecca Frangos CAN
58 Andrea Kümin SUI
60 Martina Zanetti ITA
61 Maggie Hammer USA
61 Tiffany Melius AUS
63 Olivia Campton-Smith AUS
64 Andrea Rojas ECU

Speed male
1 Aleksandr Shikov RUS 6.67
2 Aleksandr Shilov RUS 6.79
3 Danyil Boldyrev UKR 6.00
4 Bassa Mawem FRA fall
5 Kostiantyn Pavlenko UKR
6 JinXin Li CHN
7 Guillaume Moro FRA
8 Reza Alipourshena. IRI
9 Michael Finn-Henry USA
10 PengHui Lin CHN
11 Dmitrii Timofeev RUS
12 Stanislav Kokorin RUS
13 Marcin Dzienski POL
14 Alessandro Santoni ITA
15 Leonardo Gontero ITA
16 Lev Rudatskiy RUS
17 Ludovico Fossali ITA
18 Jan Kriz CZE
19 Gian Luca Zodda ITA
20 Pierre Rebreyend FRA
21 Lukas Knapp AUT
22 QiXin Zhong CHN
23 Carlos Granja ECU
24 Jacopo Stefani ITA
25 Ruslan Faizullin RUS
26 Matthias Erber AUT
27 Oleksandr Pavlenko UKR
28 Stanislao Zama ITA
29 Arsenii Bogomolov RUS
30 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
31 Kai Harada JPN
32 Ihor Robota UKR
33 Kai Lightner USA
34 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
35 Ihor Tiapkin UKR
36 YuFei Pan CHN
37 Filip Schenk ITA
38 Christoph Hanke GER
39 Artem Hlushko UKR
40 Rudolph Ruana USA
41 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
42 Josh Levin USA
43 Maciej Dobrzanski POL
44 Eric Lopez Mateos ESP
45 William Bosi GBR
46 Jernej Kruder SLO
47 Dimitri Vogt SUI
48 Simon Lorenzi BEL
49 Ruben Firnenburg GER
50 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
51 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS
52 Sergio Pastor Martínez ESP
53 Cesar Grosso BRA
54 Bittor Esparta Frade ESP
55 Jerome González Gutiérrez ESP
56 Griffin Barros-King USA
57 Hanwool Kim KOR
58 Szymon Pecikiewicz POL
59 Luka Potocar SLO
60 Lucas Uchida CAN
61 Alexander Megos GER
62 Philipp Martin GER
63 Nimrod Marcus ISR
64 Kokoro Fujii JPN
64 Artem Khabibullin RUS
64 Tomoa Narasaki JPN
64 HaiBin Qu CHN
64 Shuta Tanaka JPN

Speed female
1 Anouck Jaubert FRA 7.98
2 Victoire Andrier FRA 8.21
3 Mariia Krasavina RUS 9.62
4 YiLing Song CHN fall
5 Anna Brozek POL
6 Elisabetta Dalla Brida ITA
7 Iuliia Kaplina RUS
8 Elena Remizova RUS
9 MingWei Ni CHN
10 Klaudia Buczek POL
11 Elizaveta Ivanova RUS
12 CuiLian He CHN
13 Patrycja Chudziak POL
14 Daria Kan RUS
15 Aurelia Sarisson FRA
16 Elma Fleuret FRA
17 Elena Timofeeva RUS
18 Alexandra Elmer AUT
19 Silvia Porta ITA
20 Capucine Viglione FRA
21 Andrea Rojas ECU
22 Elena Krasovskaia RUS
23 Miho Nonaka JPN
24 Petra Klingler SUI
25 Nina Lach AUT
26 Hung Ying Lee TPE
27 Martina Zanetti ITA
28 Alma Bestvater GER
29 Tetiana Kolkotina UKR
30 Hana Krizova CZE
31 Stasa Gejo SRB
32 Jara Späte SUI
33 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
34 Futaba Ito JPN
35 Chloe Caulier BEL
36 Janja Garnbret SLO
37 LaMu Renqing CHN
38 Francesca Vasi ITA
39 Akiyo Noguchi JPN
40 Maggie Hammer USA
41 Giorgia Tesio ITA
42 Andrea Kümin SUI
43 Sofya Yokoyama SUI
44 Jain Kim KOR
45 Urska Repusic SLO
46 Ekaterina Kipriianova RUS
47 Mei Kotake JPN
48 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI
49 Mia Krampl SLO
50 Tiffany Melius AUS
51 Heloïse Doumont BEL
52 Rebecca Frangos CAN
53 Celine Cuypers BEL