Bouldering World Cup 2018: Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Nagasaki march in Moscow

They call him the "sensei", the maestro, and in Moscow during the second stage of the 2018 Bouldering World Cup Gabriele Moroni demonstrated why after all these years he’s earned this nickname, finishing sixth overall in a hard-fought comp and having dominated the qualification and semi-final. Once again, the 30-year-old from Italy proved his worth, but in the end he succumbed to the powerful team Slovenia that took silver and bronze thanks to Jernej Kruder and Gregor Vezonik, and to Japan’s Tomoa Narasaki, the only competitor to send all four problems. In the final only South Korea’s Jongwon Chon could have beaten Narasaki by sending the final problem, but this proved fatal and he slipped down into fourth, just ahead of former bouldering world champion Aleksei Rubtsov, fifth.

If Moroni is the male sensei, his female counterpart is undoubtedly Janja Garnbret, in the finals once again (for the 27th time in 28 international competitions) and once again on the highest step of the podium. In order to beat Japan’s Miho Nonaka the Slovenian had to flash the last problem and, dealing with the pressure, she climbed it masterfully. As the two were perfectly matched with 4 tops and 4 zones in only 7 attempts countback was used to the Semis. Third place went to Nonaka’s teammate Akiyo Noguchi who, after more than a decade of competitions, is still a formidable force to be reckoned with. Fourth place went to Swiss reigning World Champion Petra Klingler, fifth went to France’s Fanny Gibert who is currently enjoying the form of her life, while Britain’s Shauna Coxsey settled happily for sixth; despite not being at her max after her finger injury, she nevertheless managed to qualify for her second final in a row.

The capital of Russia also hosted the first stage of the Speed ​​World Cup, won by Reza Alipourshenazandifar who beat home favourite Vladislav Deulin, while Hinayah Muhammad’s false start handed Veddriq Leonardo third place. A false start also decided the women's competition, where Iuliia Kaplina competing in front of her home crow gave Anouck Jaubert an easy victory. Elena Timofeeva placed third ahead of Aries Susanti Rahayu.

The next stages of the Bouldering and Speed ​​World Cup will be held in Chongqing, China, on 5-6 May.

.

BOULDER
Men
1 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 4T4z1212
2 Jernej Kruder SLO 3T4z56
3 Gregor Vezonik SLO 3T4z69
4 Jongwon Chon KOR 3T4z918
5 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 2T4z427
6 Gabriele Moroni ITA 2T3z714
7 Alex Khazanov ISR
8 Keita Watabe JPN
9 Tomoaki Takata JPN
10 Rei Sugimoto JPN
11 Thilo Jeldrik Schröter NOR
12 Martin Stranik CZE
12 Nicolas Collin BEL
14 Kai Harada JPN
15 Sergii Topishko UKR
16 Sean Mccoll CAN
17 Kokoro Fujii JPN
18 Yannick Flohé GER
19 Taisei Ishimatsu JPN
19 Eric Lopez Mateos ESP
21 Ryuichi Murai JPN
22 Alban Levier FRA
23 Simon Unger GER
23 Kaito Watanabe JPN
25 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
25 Rolands Rugens LAT
25 Jakob Schubert AUT
28 Yuji Fujiwaki JPN
29 Nils Favre SUI
29 Riccardo Piazza ITA
31 Nicolas Pelorson FRA
31 Hannes Puman SWE
33 David Firnenburg GER
33 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS
35 Alexander Averdunk GER
35 Jan Hojer GER
37 Georg Parma AUT
37 Nathan Phillips GBR
39 Benjamin Blaser SUI
39 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
41 Matthew Cousins GBR
41 Keita Dohi JPN
41 Domen Skofic SLO
44 YuFei Pan CHN
45 Moritz Hans GER
45 Kevin Heiniger SUI
47 Manuel Cornu FRA
47 Tyler Landman GBR
49 Marcello Bombardi ITA
49 Mickael Mawem FRA
51 Baptiste Ometz SUI
51 Aidan Roberts GBR
53 Bjørn Arnel Iisager DEN
53 Vlas Gavrilov RUS
55 Simon Lorenzi BEL
55 Sergei Skorodumov RUS
57 Florian Klingler AUT
57 Oleg Pokusayev UKR
59 Artem Petrakov RUS
59 Fedir Samoilov UKR
61 Nikolai Michurov RUS
61 Jules Nicouleau Bourles FRA
63 William Bosi GBR
63 Anton Sviridov RUS
65 DiChong Huang CHN
65 Yury Novitskiy RUS
67 Jurijs Krasanovs LAT
67 Konstantin Mitin RUS
69 Matthias Erber AUT
69 Nathan Smith CAN
71 Kim Marschner GER
71 Nikolai Yarilovets RUS
73 Oleg Peysakhovich RUS
73 Dimitri Vogt SUI
75 Mikel Asier Linacisoro Molina ESP
75 Arman Ter-Minasyan RUS
77 Sebastien Lazure CAN
77 Matteo Manzoni ITA
79 Yury Takzhanov RUS
79 Loïc Timmermans BEL
81 Stephane Hanssens BEL
81 Sergei Tiupyshev RUS
83 Orrin Coley GBR
83 Szymon Pecikiewicz POL
85 Ram Levin ISR
85 Nimrod Marcus ISR
85 Dmitrii Popov RUS
88 Jakub Jedlicka CZE
89 Meirāns Pēteris LAT
89 Francesco Vettorata ITA
91 Ben Abel AUS
91 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
91 Will Johnson CAN
94 Vasily Kozlov RUS
95 Alfons Dornauer AUT
95 HaiBin Qu CHN
97 Borna Cujic CRO
97 Filip Schenk ITA
99 Hossein Familrohani IRI
99 Andrea Zanone ITA
101 Jan-Luca Posch AUT
101 Rolf Fredrik Serlachius SWE
101 Mykola Silevych UKR
104 Yuval Shemla ISR
105 Nikolai Morozov RUS
105 Artem Paukaiev UKR
105 Vladislav Shevchenko RUS
108 Semen Ovchinnikov RUS
109 Stepan Stranik CZE

Women
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 4T4z75
2 Miho Nonaka JPN 4T4z75
3 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 3T4z89
4 Petra Klingler SUI 3T4z910
5 Fanny Gibert FRA 2T3z23
6 Shauna Coxsey GBR 1T3z46
7 Sol Sa KOR
8 Futaba Ito JPN
9 Chloe Caulier BEL
10 Katja Kadic SLO
11 Mia Krampl SLO
12 Mélanie Sandoz FRA
13 Saki Kikuchi JPN
14 Jessica Pilz AUT
15 Stasa Gejo SRB
16 Lilli Kiesgen GER
16 Katharina Posch AUT
18 Berit Schwaiger AUT
19 Franziska Sterrer AUT
20 Elena Krasovskaia RUS
21 Ekaterina Kipriianova RUS
21 Mina Markovic SLO
23 Alma Bestvater GER
23 Hung Ying Lee TPE
25 Charlotte Andre FRA
25 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
27 Sierra Blair-Coyle USA
27 Hannah Schubert AUT
29 Valentina Aguado ARG
29 Julia Chanourdie FRA
31 Mao Nakamura JPN
31 Tatiana Shemulinkina RUS
33 Elnaz Rekabi IRI
33 Rebekka Stotz SUI
35 Anastasiia Evgeneva RUS
35 Katharina Saurwein AUT
37 Natalie Bärtschi SUI
37 Mei Kotake JPN
39 Maëlys Agrapart FRA
39 Maya Madere USA
39 Sofya Yokoyama SUI
42 Tjasa Slemensek SLO
43 Valiantsina Chamiakina BLR
43 Vera Zijlstra NED
45 Evgeniya Lapshina RUS
45 Anna Zaikina RUS
47 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR
47 Jennifer Wood GBR
49 Nanako Kura JPN
49 Irina Kuzmenko RUS
51 Andrea Ebner ITA
51 Viktoriia Meshkova RUS
51 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
54 Ekaterina Novitskaia RUS
55 Luiza Emeleva RUS
55 Sunniva Eik Haave NOR
57 Afra Hönig GER
57 Imogen Horrocks GBR
59 Aya Onoe JPN
59 Martina Zanetti ITA
61 Anna Margolina RUS
61 Margaryta Zakharova UKR
63 Mariia Musienko RUS
63 Di Niu CHN
63 Itziar Zabala Zurinaga ESP
66 Momoka Kaneko JPN
66 Jara Späte SUI
68 Lisa Chulich USA
69 Mie (Marie Therese) Kastet NOR
69 Andrea Kümin SUI
69 Olga Kushch RUS
69 Tiba Vroom NED
73 Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
73 Fatemeh Jafari Mahmodabadi IRI
73 Nataliia Stepanova RUS
76 Frederike Fell GER
76 Katrine Vandet Salling DEN
78 Anna Tsyganova RUS
79 Kseniya Kopusava BLR
79 Valeri Kremer ISR
79 Aliaksandra Misiukevich BLR
82 heeyeon Park KOR
83 Daria Malysheva RUS
83 Volha Rak BLR
83 Daria Titkina BLR
86 Karina Bilkova CZE
87 Patrycja Chudziak POL
87 Lotina Diana LAT
87 Alla Marenych UKR
87 Andrea Rojas ECU
91 Daniela Kotrbova CZE
92 Edyta Ropek POL
93 Bahareh Badrabadi IRI
93 Heloïse Doumont BEL
93 Cirvele Katrīna LAT
93 Hadis Nazarirobati IRI
93 Katsiaryna Pahuda BLR
98 Alise Zvigule LAT
99 Valeriia Deriabina RUS
100 Yevheniia Cherniavska UKR

SPEED
Men
1 Reza Alipourshena. IRI 5.82
2 Vladislav Deulin RUS 6.87
3 Veddriq Leonardo INA Wildcard
4 Hinayah Muhammad INA false start
5 Jan Kriz CZE
6 Ludovico Fossali ITA
7 Sabri Sabri INA
8 Leonardo Gontero ITA
9 Pangeran Septo Wibowo Siburian INA
10 Alessandro Santoni ITA
11 Stanislav Kokorin RUS
12 JinXin Li CHN
13 Aspar Jaelolo INA
14 Aleksandr Shikov RUS
15 Dmitrii Timofeev RUS
16 Amir Maimuratov KAZ
17 Kostiantyn Pavlenko UKR
18 Ehsan Asrar IRI
19 Alfian Muhammad INA
20 Yulianto Abudzar INA
20 Artem Khabibullin RUS
22 Ruslan Faizullin RUS
23 Mehdi Alipourshena. IRI
24 Tagir Izmailov RUS
25 Lev Rudatskiy RUS
26 Vladislav Terleev RUS
27 Marcin Dzienski POL
28 Porya Karim Pour IRI
29 Gian Luca Zodda ITA
30 Almaz Nagaev RUS
31 Eduard Daukaev RUS
32 Michael Finn-Henry USA
33 Mohammad Reza Ehtesham Nia IRI
34 Demyan Zaytsev RUS
35 ZhiYong Ou CHN
36 FengQi Wang CHN
37 Nikolai Yarilovets RUS
38 Sergei Rukin RUS
39 Georgy Artamonov RUS
40 Artyom Devyaterikov KAZ
41 YuFei Pan CHN
42 Mikel Asier Linacisoro Molina ESP
43 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
44 Petr Burian CZE
45 Alexey Panfilov KAZ
46 Josh Levin USA
47 Szymon Pecikiewicz POL
48 Sean Mccoll CAN
49 Kokoro Fujii JPN
50 Jakob Schubert AUT
51 Filip Schenk ITA
52 Mikhail Babichev RUS
53 Borna Cujic CRO
54 Matej Burian CZE
54 Tomoa Narasaki JPN
56 Taisei Ishimatsu JPN
57 Keita Dohi JPN
58 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
59 HaiBin Qu CHN
60 Moritz Hans GER
61 DiChong Huang CHN
62 Arsenii Bogomolov RUS
63 Simon Lorenzi BEL
64 Yannick Flohé GER
65 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
66 David Firnenburg GER
67 Yuval Shemla ISR
68 Vladislav Shevchenko RUS
69 Nicolas Collin BEL
70 Nimrod Marcus ISR
71 Bohdan Botnar UKR
71 Kai Harada JPN
71 Dmitry Karavaev BLR
71 Alimzhan Myrzabekov KAZ
71 Aleksandr Shilov RUS

Women
1 Anouck Jaubert FRA 7.32
2 Iuliia Kaplina RUS false start
3 Elena Timofeeva RUS 7.61
4 Aries Susanti Rahayu INA 8.47
5 Mariia Krasavina RUS
6 Rajiah Sallsabillah INA
7 Anna Tsyganova RUS
8 Santi Wellyanti INA
9 Puji Lestari INA
10 Elizaveta Ivanova RUS
11 Aleksandra Kalucka POL
12 Sari Agustina INA
13 Aurelia Sarisson FRA
14 Elena Remizova RUS
15 CuiLian He CHN
16 Elma Fleuret FRA
17 Ekaterina Barashchuk RUS
18 Kamilla Kushaeva RUS
19 Polina Aksenova RUS
20 Victoire Andrier FRA
21 Daria Kan RUS
22 Klaudia Buczek POL
23 Fitriyani Fitriyani INA
23 Alla Marenych UKR
25 Di Niu CHN
26 Andrea Rojas ECU
27 Kseniia Petrova RUS
28 HaiMei Qiu CHN
29 Assel Marlenova KAZ
30 Svetlana Sharova RUS
31 Alexandra Elmer AUT
32 Elena Krasovskaia RUS
33 Karina Gareeva RUS
34 Anna Brozek POL
35 Luiza Emeleva RUS
36 Patrycja Chudziak POL
36 Polina Kulagina RUS
38 Nina Lach AUT
39 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
40 Iqomah Nurul INA
41 Edyta Ropek POL
42 Darina Galaganova RUS
43 Nataliia Stepanova RUS
44 Miho Nonaka JPN
45 Futaba Ito JPN
46 Azam Karami IRI
47 Valeriia Deriabina RUS
48 Elnaz Rekabi IRI
49 Irina Sabitova RUS
50 Nanako Kura JPN
51 Valentina Aguado ARG
52 Margaryta Zakharova UKR
53 Akiyo Noguchi JPN
54 Julia Chanourdie FRA
55 Fatemeh Jafari Mahmodabadi IRI
56 Maggie Hammer USA
57 Hadis Nazarirobati IRI
58 Chloe Caulier BEL
59 Bahareh Badrabadi IRI
60 Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
61 Andrea Ebner ITA
62 Mei Kotake JPN
63 Saki Kikuchi JPN
64 Mariia Musienko RUS
65 Heloïse Doumont BEL
66 Lisa Hammer USA
67 Elisabetta Dalla Brida ITA
67 Hung Ying Lee TPE