Bouldering World Cup 2012: Gelmanov and Noguchi win in Vienna
The third round of the Bouldering World Cup 2012 was won today in Vienna by Rustam Gelmanov from Russia and Akiyo Noguchi from Japan
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Akiyo Noguchi
Giulio Malfer
Third round, of six, today in Vienna. The Bouldering World Cup 2012 has reached the half-way point and this evening, in the Austrian capital, it was him once again - Rustam Gelmanov - and her once again - Akiyo Noguchi, who dominated and won the event.
The Russian and the Japanese comfortably lead the provisional results after an exceptional competition: Gelmanov send all four boulder problems in the final in 7 attempts, while Noguchi was just as impeccable with 4 problems sent in a mere 6 attemtps.
Second place in the beautiful men's final went to Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (3 tops in 4 attempts) and third went to Kilian Fischhuber (3 tops in 5 attempts) while Rei Sugimoto from Japan and the Frenchmen Thomas Caleyron and Jeremy Bonder completed the list. These last three aren't names which usually make it into the final ranking but obviously in Vienna today they managed to find that little bit of something more which bouldering can sometimes give. Or take away: just ask Jakob Schubert and the 2009 Bouldering World Champion Alexey Rubtsov, two of the numerous illustrious climbers who much to everyone's surprise failed to make it through the qualification.
The women's final provided no great upsets, and after gold taken by Noguchi, silver was won by Slovenian Mina Markovic (3 tops in 5 attempts) and bronze by American Alex Puccio (2 tops in 2 attempts and the best in the Semi-final). The remaining three, in this extremely international final, were Shauna Coxsey from great Britain, local Austrian hope Anna Stöhr and Olga Shalagina from the Ukraine.
All these athletes will now enjoy a fortnight's rest before the 4th round in Innsbruck on 18-19 May.
The Russian and the Japanese comfortably lead the provisional results after an exceptional competition: Gelmanov send all four boulder problems in the final in 7 attempts, while Noguchi was just as impeccable with 4 problems sent in a mere 6 attemtps.
Second place in the beautiful men's final went to Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (3 tops in 4 attempts) and third went to Kilian Fischhuber (3 tops in 5 attempts) while Rei Sugimoto from Japan and the Frenchmen Thomas Caleyron and Jeremy Bonder completed the list. These last three aren't names which usually make it into the final ranking but obviously in Vienna today they managed to find that little bit of something more which bouldering can sometimes give. Or take away: just ask Jakob Schubert and the 2009 Bouldering World Champion Alexey Rubtsov, two of the numerous illustrious climbers who much to everyone's surprise failed to make it through the qualification.
The women's final provided no great upsets, and after gold taken by Noguchi, silver was won by Slovenian Mina Markovic (3 tops in 5 attempts) and bronze by American Alex Puccio (2 tops in 2 attempts and the best in the Semi-final). The remaining three, in this extremely international final, were Shauna Coxsey from great Britain, local Austrian hope Anna Stöhr and Olga Shalagina from the Ukraine.
All these athletes will now enjoy a fortnight's rest before the 4th round in Innsbruck on 18-19 May.
IFSC World Cup 2012 - Vienna, Austria | ||||
Boulder men | ||||
1 | Rustam | Gelmanov | RUS | 4t7 4b4 |
2 | Dmitrii | Sharafutdinov | RUS | 3t4 4b4 |
3 | Kilian | Fischhuber | AUT | 3t5 4b4 |
4 | Rei | Sugimoto | JPN | 3t13 4b7 |
5 | Thomas | Caleyron | FRA | 2t3 4b5 |
6 | Jeremy | Bonder | FRA | 2t12 2b9 |
Boulder women |
||||
1 | Akiyo | Noguchi | JPN | 4t6 4b4 |
2 | Mina | Markovic | SLO | 3t5 4b4 |
3 | Alex | Puccio | USA | 2t2 3b4 |
4 | Shauna | Coxsey | GBR | 2t5 4b7 |
5 | Anna | Stöhr | AUT | 1t1 3b3 |
6 | Olga | Shalagina | UKR | 0t 0b |
Provisional results 2012 |
||||
Boulder men | ||||
1. | Rustam | Gelmanov | RUS | 265 |
2. | Dmitrii | Sharafutdinov | RUS | 161 |
3. | Guillaume | Glairon Mondet | FRA | 156 |
4. | Jakob | Schubert | AUT | 154 |
5. | Kilian | Fischhuber | AUT | 145 |
Boulder women |
||||
1. | Akiyo | Noguchi | JPN | 251 |
2. | Mina | Markovic | SLO | 227 |
3. | Anna | Stöhr | AUT | 196 |
4. | Shauna | Coxsey | GBR | 190 |
5. | Alex | Puccio | USA | 125 |
Note:
Planetmountain | |
2: Gelmanov and Markovic win in Log-Dragomer | |
1: Noguchi and Schubert win in Chongqing | |
Bouldering World Cup 2012, all the stages | |
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www.ifsc-climbing.org |
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