Adam Ondra and Juliane Wurm Bouldering World Champions!
6000 people just witnessed a final which couldn’t have been more thrilling. In the end, right on the very last problem, it was won by Czech star Adam Ondra and Germany’s Juliane Wurm. They are the new Bouldering World Champions!
It would have been hard to write a more exciting script to the final of this Bouldering World Championship. After battling it out through the semifinals this morning, 12 athletes lined up for the showdown in Munich this evening. Twelve of the very best, who had managed to eliminate hot favourites such as Kilian Fischhuber, Sean McColl, Yulia Abramchuk and Mina Markovic to name just four who failed to make it past the Semifinal.
These six male and six female athletes were spearheaded by Germany's Juliane Wurm, her teammate Jan Hojer and Adam Ondra who had laid the groundwork in the Semis to qualify provisional first. The thought of a German double gold made the crowd go wild with excitement and right from the outset this teutonic proposition looked incredibly real: while Slovenia's Jernej Kruder, France's Guillaume Glairon Modet, Japan's Tsukuru Hori and Russia's Dmitrii Sharafutdinov all failed on the first problem, both Ondra and Hojer sent it first go to make their intentions felt. Hojer then took the lead by flashing problem #2, while Ondra lagged behind as he struggled with 8 attempts, far more than both Kruder and Glairon Modet who remained firmly in the game.
These two made surprisingly short work of problem #3, as did defending champion Sharafutdinov, and when Ondra took the stage he knew he had some serious catching up to do if he wanted to keep his dream alive of adding this title to his list of victories, which already includes the Lead World Cup and the Bouldering World Cup. But the third, vertical problem – a dyno off a tiny crimp for two poor slopers – proved a nightmare and it was only his sheer grit that eventually got him up it, fifth go. The same held true for Hojer minutes later, as he struggled and struggled and... struggled as the seconds ticked by. But the winner of the 2014 Bouldering World Cup is not a man to give up easily and with just 2 seconds left he finally unlocked the sequence to send it 10th go! This meant that Hojer had sent 3 problems in 12 attempts, while Ondra had sent 3 in 14. The Final was going right down to the wire....
While all eyes were on the battle between these two, Kruder almost stole the show by sending problem #4 on his fourth attempt. His pure power demonstration projected him into provisional first place and put Ondra and Hojer under immense pressure: if they wanted to win, they had to send the final problem. And send it Ondra did, second go! But it wasn't over yet, for Hojer was still to climb and he had a margin of 4 attempts, so victory was still well within his grasp. He knew it. And climbed calmly, despite the immense pressure, at exactly the same moment as his teammate Juliane Wurm clinched her first World Championship title. The timing couldn't have been better and for a second it looked as if the stars were aligned in Germany's favour. Double gold. Double gold... But it wasn't to be. Problem #4 got the better of Hojer and suddenly time ran out. Ondra was crowned champion and Hojer, who failed on the final hurdle, was pipped to the post by Kruder who had produced his best-ever competition performance to win silver.
Talking of best-ever competition performances... after countless second and third places over the years, Germany's Juliane Wurm finally found her way to victory half-way through the 2013 season. And despite winning only once in 2014, she has nevertheless always been a fearsome force to be reckoned with and her third time lucky this evening couldn't have been luckier: the Bouldering World Championship title is hers, and deservedly so! Wurm comfortably qualified for the final in provisional first and she was joined by the revelation of the competition, England's Michaela Tracy, her teammate Shauna Coxsey, France's Melissa Le Neve, Japan's Akiyo Noguchi and America's Alex Puccio.
While Le Neve, Coxsey and Tracy struggled on problem #1, Noguchi and Puccio flashed it and Wurm, not to be outdone, sent it second go. Problem #2 proved somewhat trickier for most, except for Puccio who sent it in two, compared to Wurm's flash. This meant that these two athletes were perfectly paired as they entered round 3, but since this problem proved invincible for all, problem #4 was going to be decisive. A running start rightwards was certainly quite a gamble for the route setters, but it payed off as Coxsey stuck the dyno on her fourth attempt and Puccio on her sixth. This really put pressure on Wurm and to win in front of her home crowd she simply had to send it, and in less than six attempts.
As the spotlight focused on her and her teammate Jan Hojer, the crowd didn't know who to watch, especially as 2 minutes were down and the pressure was building fast. Thankfully Hojer stopped to brush a hold and as all eyes shifted left Wurm stuck the dyno. Fifth go. The title was hers. Boundless joy and incredulity. Until the first congratulations, from Hojer. Followed by Puccio who won silver, and Noguchi who won bronze.
IFSC Climbing World Championship (B) - Munich (GER) 2014
Final Men
1. Adam Ondra CZE 4t16 4b16
2. Jernej Kruder SLO 3t12 4b13
3. Jan Hojer GER 3t12 3b9
4. Guillaume Glairon Modet FRA 2t6 3b7
5. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 1t4 3b9
6. Tsukuru Hori JPN 0t 2b9
Final Women
1. Juliane Wurm GER 3t8 4b8
2. Alex Puccio USA 3t9 4b9
3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 1t1 3b3
4. Shauna Coxsey GBR 1t4 4b7
5. Melissa Le Neve FRA 0t 3b3
6. Michaela Tracy GBR 0t 3b5
COMPLETE RESULTS
MEN
1 Adam Ondra CZE
2 Jernej Kruder SLO
3 Jan Hojer GER
4 Guillaume Glairon Modet FRA
5 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS
6 Tsukuru Hori JPN
7 Mathias Conrad GER
8 Alban Levier FRA
9 Sean Mccoll CAN
10 Tomoa Narasaki JPN
11 Kilian Fischhuber AUT
12 Thomas Tauporn GER
13 James Kassay AUS
14 Gabriele Moroni ITA
15 Martin Stranik CZE
15 Stephane Julien FRA
17 Jorg Verhoeven NED
18 Rei Sugimoto JPN
19 Jason Holowach CAN
20 Makoto Yamauchi JPN
21 Jeremy Bonder FRA
21 Rustam Gelmanov RUS
21 Yury Novitskiy RUS
24 Kevin Heiniger SUI
25 Daniel Andersson SWE
25 Vadim Timonov RUS
27 Dominic Burns IRL
27 Kokoro Fujii JPN
29 Benjamin Blaser SUI
29 Stefan Danker GER
31 Magnus Midtboe NOR
31 Michael O'rourke USA
33 Jakub Glowka POL
33 Stefan Scarperi ITA
35 Jongwon Chon KOR
35 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
37 Valeriy Kryukov UKR
37 Domen Skofic SLO
39 Jure Becan SLO
39 Rolands Rugens LAT
41 David Barrans GBR
41 Geir Söderin SWE
43 Ignacio Sanchez González ESP
43 Elias Weiler AUT
45 Gholamali Baratzadeh IRI
45 Alfons Dornauer AUT
47 Nicky De Leeuw NED
47 Sebastien Lazure CAN
49 Andrzej Mecherzynski- Wiktor POL
49 Arman Ter-Minasyan RUS
51 Baptiste Ometz SUI
51 Mykhaylo Shalagin UKR
53 Marco Antonio Jubes Angarita ESP
53 Stepan Stranik CZE
55 David Firnenburg GER
55 Jabee Kim KOR
57 Mauricio Huerta MEX
57 Andrew Lamb USA
59 Kenneth Elvegård NOR
59 Nathan Phillips GBR
61 Jurijs Krasanovs LAT
61 Vilimantas Petrasiunas LTU
63 Kipras Baltrunas LTU
63 Josh Larson USA
63 Sergii Topishko UKR
66 Jonathan Partridge GBR
67 Kevin Hemund SUI
67 Arturas Volkovas LTU
69 Jan Chvala CZE
69 Alex Khazanov ISR
71 Sergii Karpin UKR
71 Riccardo Piazza ITA
73 Tomas Ravanal CHI
73 Jonathan Redmond IRL
75 Matthew Cousins GBR
75 Iris Manuel Matamoros Quero ESP
77 Dmitrijus Monastyreckis LTU
77 Artem Petrakov RUS
79 Tomas Greksak SVK
79 Martin Penkov BUL
79 Andrea Zanone ITA
82 SUNGBO Seo KOR
82 Timo Tak NED
84 Carlos Jose Catari Ramones ESP
84 Jorge Hernandez COL
84 Hannes Platon SWE
84 Bogdan Rus ROU
84 Siu Hei Tang HKG
84 Andrew Zhigarev UKR
90 Bjørn Arnel Iisager DEN
91 Daragh O Connor IRL
92 Tom Newman GBR
93 Bozhidar Lyubenov BUL
93 Robin Vicery DEN
95 Erik Ebler SWE
95 George Maris ROU
97 Silviu Corciovei ROU
97 Sin Fai Ho HKG
97 Emiliyan Kolevski BUL
100 Petr Handlir CZE
101 Anghelo Bernal COL
101 Severin Curtis RSA
101 Alexander Ilin KAZ
101 Jovan Ivanov MKD
101 Nikola Petrov BUL
101 Marián Šeliga SVK
101 Daniel Ungureanu ROU
108 Cesar Orjuela COL
109 Yossi Ben Yossef ISR
109 Jose Emilio De La Cruz Albarracin PER
109 Manuel Guzman COL
109 juan Sebastian Prieto Perilla COL
WOMEN
1 Juliane Wurm GER
2 Alex Puccio USA
3 Akiyo Noguchi JPN
4 Shauna Coxsey GBR
5 Melissa Le Neve FRA
6 Michaela Tracy GBR
7 Monika Retschy GER
8 Petra Klingler SUI
9 Mina Markovic SLO
10 Fanny Gibert FRA
11 Chloé Caulier BEL
12 Yulia Abramchuk RUS
13 Mélanie Sandoz FRA
13 Marine Thévenet FRA
15 Miho Nonaka JPN
15 Katharina Saurwein AUT
17 Julija Kruder SLO
18 Charlotte Durif FRA
19 Jenny Lavarda ITA
20 Sabine Bacher AUT
21 Olga Iakovleva RUS
21 Angela Payne USA
23 Hung Ying Lee TPE
23 Tatiana Shemulinkina RUS
25 Ekaterina Andreeva RUS
25 Hannah Midtboe NOR
27 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
27 Rebekka Stotz SUI
29 Berit Schwaiger AUT
29 Olga Shalagina UKR
31 Barbara Bacher AUT
31 Sol Sa KOR
33 Natalie Bärtschi SUI
33 Charlotte Garden GBR
35 Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
35 Anna Vollenwyder AUT
37 Alma Bestvater GER
37 Jara Späte SUI
39 Elise Sethna CAN
39 Vera Zijlstra NED
41 Valeri Kremer ISR
41 Meagan Martin USA
43 Annalisa De Marco ITA
43 Santa Grigorjeva LAT
45 Minna Almqvist SWE
45 Sylwia Buczek POL
47 Friederike Petri GER
47 Petra Ruzickova CZE
49 Stasa Gejo SRB
49 Stella Plantin SWE
51 Olga Kulish UKR
51 Silvie Rajfova CZE
53 Dominika Dupalová CZE
53 Daniela Ebler SWE
55 Katarzyna Ekwinska POL
55 Thomasina Pidgeon CAN
55 Volha Rak BLR
55 Malgorzata Rudzinska POL
59 Mária Čelková SVK
60 Claire Bresnan USA
60 Jelisa Dunbar CAN
62 Karoline Sinnhuber AUT
62 Antonia Ioana Trifu ROU
64 EBRU Di̇lli̇ TUR
64 Katrine Vandet Salling DEN
66 Magali Hayen BEL
67 Nóra Király HUN
67 Janka Meyer GER
69 Catalina Achury COL
69 BUKET Akça TUR
69 Enache Catrinel ROU
69 Or Cohen ISR
69 Jihyeon Jeong KOR
69 Margarita Marsanova USA
69 Teresa Troya Gil ESP
76 Flor de Luna Pazan COL
77 Nelly Kudrova CZE
77 Claire Langmore AUS
77 Ana Patino COL
77 Maja Petrovska MKD
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