William Bosi makes first ascent of King Capella, new 9b+ at Siurana


A year after sending his first 9b, La Capella at Siurana in Spain, Scotland’s William Bosi has taken things one stage further and established King Capella immediately to the left, for which he has proposed the grade of 9b+. If confirmed, it would make him the first British climber to climb the grade, and only sixth in the world after Adam Ondra (2012), Chris Sharma (2013), Alexander Megos (2018), Stefano Ghisolfi (2018) and Jakob Schubert (2019).

King Capella was bolted by David Brasco and provides intense, fingery and powerful climbing with an explosive dyno followed by another tough sequence before finishing up the 8b/8b+ A 2 bandas.

The line represented a significant step up in difficulty according to Bosi "King Capella has the same style of the area with a series of boulder problems stacked on top of one another however this route was another level for me. For comparison, it took me three sessions to complete La Capella, whereas it took me three sessions to unlock the first sequence on King Capella."

The first ascent came about at the start of March, and during his Spain climbing trip Bosi also made the first ascents of Furia de Jabali (9b, bolted by Beto Rocasolano) and Last Night (9a, bolted by Dani Andrada) as well as repeating Estado Critico (9a) and, at Margalef, First Ley (9a+) and Ley Indignata (9a).

TOPO: Siurana, Spain

The hardest sport climbs in the world
2012 Change 9b+, Flatanger, Norway. First ascent: Adam Ondra Repeat: Stefano Ghisolfi, 2020
2013 La Dura Dura 9b+, Oliana Spain. First ascent: Adam Ondra. Repeat: Chris Sharma, 2013
2013 Vasil Vasil 9b+, Sloup, Repubblica Ceca. First ascent: Adam Ondra
2017 Silence 9c Flatanger, Norway. First ascent: Adam Ondra
2018 Perfecto Mundo 9b+, Margalef, Spain. First ascent: Alexander Megos Repeats: Stefano Ghisolfi 2018, Jakob Schubert 2019
2020 Bibliographie 9c, Céüse, France. First ascent: Alexander Megos
2021 King Capella 9b+, Siurana, Spain: First ascent: William Bosi