Watch Sébastien Bouin climb new sequence on Biographie at Céüse

Last summer Sébastien Bouin repeated Biographie at Céüse, the benchmark 9a+ freed in 2001 by Chris Sharma. Prior to success however, he got shut down by the classic 7C boulder crux and, consequently, set out to find a different sequence. His beta involves skipping the crux sloper and reaching the good crimp with his left hand instead of his right and then, using a two finger pocket, return to the route. For this who love minute detail, here’s his new "méthode".

TOPO: the crag Céüse

BIOGRAPHIE -THE ROUTE'S HISTORY
bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille, climbed to half-height by Arnaud Petit in 1996. The extension was freed by Chris Sharma in 2001 and called Realization.
Chris Sharma, USA, 2001
Sylvain Millet, France, 2004
Patxi Usobiaga, Spain, 2004
Dave Graham, USA, 2007
Ethan Pringle, USA, 2007
Ramón Julián Puigblanque, Spain, 2008
Enzo Oddo, France, 2010
Jonathan Siegrist, USA, 2014
Alexander Megos, Germany, 2014
Adam Ondra, Czech Republic, 2014
Sachi Amma, Japan, 2014
Stefano Ghisolfi, Italy, 2015
Jon Cardwell, USA, 2016
Sean Bailey, USA, 2016
Margo Hayes, USA, 2017
Piotr Schab, POL, 2018 
Stefano Carnati, ITA, 2018
Jorge Díaz-Rullo, ESP, 2019
Sébastien Bouin, FRA, 2020

Link: FB Sébastien Bouin