Via di Testa repeated by Luigi Billoro and Daniele de Candido
Luigi Billoro and Daniele de Candido have repeated "Via di testa" max 8b+, 7c obb on Monte Cimo, Italy
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Daniele De Candido repeating Via di Testa, max 8b+, 7c obl, Monte Cimo, Trentino Alto Adige.
Massimo Da Pozzo
In April Luigi Billoro repeated Via di Testa, the multi-pitch first ascended by Nicola Sartori and Nicola Tondini on Monte Cimo graded max 8b+, 7c obb. In May the evergreen Daniele De Candido managed to repeat the line as well, describing the route as being ""a small work of art, a must."
At the end of March the two checked out the first three pitches, before returning on 5 April for the redpoint. Things ran smoothly for Billoro on pitches 1,2,3 and 5, while pitches 4 and 6 needed two goes to be freed. De Candido, famous for the first on-sight of the famous Via del Pesce on the Marmolada in 1990, returned to the Brenta in May for his ascent together with another Dolomites expert, Massimo Da Pozzo.
After the ascent Billoro commented: "Out of your mind, yes! You have to be a bit crazy to even think about ascending a route up that wall on Monte Cimo... it's seriously overhanging and setting off from the ground up means having lost a bit of "reality", but also implies that you have the "talent and vision" to see that bit further... beyond the vertical and past what may be described as common sense. It's that bit of madness which Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori demonstrated by first ascending this small jewel... beautiful and daring... the run-outs are fine... it's clear that your not at a "certified crag" and falls and consequently long... but also into mid-air. Certainly those who made the first ascent fell even further. But when you repeat a route the table is already set and the bolts indicate the line of ascent... excellent, congratulations to both of them."
At the end of March the two checked out the first three pitches, before returning on 5 April for the redpoint. Things ran smoothly for Billoro on pitches 1,2,3 and 5, while pitches 4 and 6 needed two goes to be freed. De Candido, famous for the first on-sight of the famous Via del Pesce on the Marmolada in 1990, returned to the Brenta in May for his ascent together with another Dolomites expert, Massimo Da Pozzo.
After the ascent Billoro commented: "Out of your mind, yes! You have to be a bit crazy to even think about ascending a route up that wall on Monte Cimo... it's seriously overhanging and setting off from the ground up means having lost a bit of "reality", but also implies that you have the "talent and vision" to see that bit further... beyond the vertical and past what may be described as common sense. It's that bit of madness which Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori demonstrated by first ascending this small jewel... beautiful and daring... the run-outs are fine... it's clear that your not at a "certified crag" and falls and consequently long... but also into mid-air. Certainly those who made the first ascent fell even further. But when you repeat a route the table is already set and the bolts indicate the line of ascent... excellent, congratulations to both of them."
Note:
Links Planetmountain | |
Sartori & Tondini, 3 routes Monte Cimo |
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