Südwind, new Wilder Kaiser climb by Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher

SUEDWIND, SOUTHERN WIND ON MAUKSPITZE by Alexander Huber

So we were lucky once again, Guido and I. This was practically our last chance to free Südwind this autumn. Last autumn Guido and I had made the first ascent of this beautiful line to the right of Südpfeiler, but time ran out for the first free ascent and we had to put things off to a later date.

After the Karakorum expedition this summer I returned to the Wilder Kaiser this September and slowly but surely got fit enough for a grade X alpine outing.

I fell off the last IX pitch a week before the free ascent, I’d ran out of energy and was lacking a bit of substance. But on 30 September things fell into place. The right level of aggressiveness was there, as were my energy levels and Guido and I teamed up for Südwind.

It was really windy that day, in the beginning we were unsure as to whether it might even be too cold, despite the sun. The southern wind looked like it would bring snow. But in the end it turned out to be a fantastic day, the grip was sensational.

Nine, ten minus, eight plus, ten, nine but above all completely demanding technically. Power alone won’t get you anywhere Südwind!

by Alexander Huber

04/11/2008 - Alexander Huber interview
Interview with German climber Alexander Huber, one of the world's most important sport climbers and mountaineers.