Seb Bouin makes flash first ascent of 8c+ 'Baise moi'
On Wednesday the 9th of August, French climber Seb Bouin managed to make a flash first-ascent of an unclimbed project at the crag of Saint Auban, in the Verdon Gorges, France. The project was bolted by Adrien Boulon who called it Baise moi and provided Bouin with the beta for his flash ascent.
After his remarkable climb Bouin commented "I thought “Why not?”, even if I was doubtful, I had nothing to lose. Then, crux by crux, I understood that the route could be possible, it was 100% my climbing style. Big moves, bad rests between the cruxes. A pure endurance route. I didn’t make any mistakes and I took the risks at the right moments. It's rare to have this kind of opportunity. I am not used to climb onsight or flash in this level. I have not so many routes left in this level to practice. I am not so good at taking risks in my climbing, so I am quite happy about the result of this climb. It's quite hard to combine everything for an onsight or a flash : the good betas, the shape, the right conditions. Adrien's flash beta was perfect. I would need at least 3 goes to find all his betas from scratch. Thanks to Adrien Boulon for bolting the route and giving the perfect betas and thanks to François Chollet for the long, long belay."
The 30-year-old has been enjoying a run of quite amazing form in the last few years with a string of cutting-edge first ascents and repeats to his name, which culminated last year in the first ascent of the 9c DNA at nearby La Ramirole.
8c+ first ascent straight off has been achieved in the past, notably by Patxi Usobiaga who in 2007 upped the ante by dispatching with Bizi euskara at Etxauri, Spain onsight. At the time it was the world's first 8c+ onsight.