Sardinia’s Monte Arista hosts new crack climb Black Lives Matter

Monte Arista is a splendid granite cliff overlooking the splendid, long beach Marina di Cardedu. Its profile is unmistakable and there’s a huge roof at the top that captures everyone’s imagination. Some see a woodpecker, others a baboon or a vulture, while locally the mountain is also known as the "woman's face". 

Despite its privileged position, Mount Arista is particularly very well known outside Sardinia, while locally it is very popular with hikers and especially with those who enjoy via ferrata, since there’s a ferrata that leads to the summit. Many use the via ferrata to reach the top and then abseil down the spur.

January 2020. I’d observed this curious granite outcrop for many years and always wondered why it had never attracted the attention of climbers. Considering the via ferrata, the abseils and its popularity with walkers and scramblers, I concluded that rock climbs, assuming they were there some, must either be very difficult or discouraging. In January I made the short walk to the base to see for myself and immediately identified a logical line that climbed up to a beautiful corner suspended between earth and air, right next to the large roof. In all effects a system of cracks led without interruption all the way to the top. Although not partially high, given the location it was certainly worth a go. For the moment though I gave it a miss… I had other plans in mind.

June 2020. After this tragic start to the season it’s difficult to get back into the swing of things. Due to my poor shape and the difficulties associated with planning trips, even sidelined projects suddenly seemed appealing. Mopnte Arista came to mind and I suggested to Simone that we’d  go there, with all the gear we’d need to establish the new live. On my visit in January I’d thought of it as being completely trad. Possibly demanding, but only on gear. Now though I changed my mind, these things happen. I reckoned that with some bolts on the pitches, it might get repeated more often by those who don’t have the chance to bring (or own) two complete sets of cams. Were the route to be somewhere else I’d probably have been more radical, but each area has its own peculiarities. Many of the trad climbs I’ve established in this corner of Ogliastra have never been repeated! Who knows if this one will be luckier?

The climbing proved exciting, up the wide crack, and we progressed faster than we’d expected. We reached the top four hours later and enjoyed the view onto the long beach and cobalt blue sea extending out beneath our feet. As I had originally thought, the route could go completely clean. It can therefore be climbed greenpoint; those wishing to do so can skip the few bolts we placed on the pitches. Provided they have two complete sets of cams, I’m certain they’ll enjoy themselves without risking too much. For everyone else, one set of cams up to #3 BD will be sufficient.

by Maurizio Oviglia

TOPO: Black Lives Matter, Monte Arista, Sardinia