Laura Rogora makes first female ascent of Lapsus (9a+) at Andonno
In between dodging the raindrops, during the last week Italy's Laura Rogora has amassed a poker of important climbs at the historic crag Andonno: Lapsus, Cobra Reale, Noia and Noi.
The 22-year-old travelled to the Piedmont region last Wednesday and immediately started working the moves of Lapsus, the stamina fest put up by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2015. Originally graded 9b, after a series of repeats consensus now puts at 9a+. Despite some wet holds Rogora immediately managed to do all the moves and then on Friday, after pouring rain on Thursday, she made a first serious attempt but fell on the traverse.
On Saturday it was too cold to give the route a go so instead she came up trumps on the Severino Scassa masterpiece Noia. "The first 8c+ in Italy, established in 1993 but nevertheless I found it was a very modern style of climbing" Rogora told planetmountain, adding "a great stamina test, fantastic."
On Sunday the weather improved and Rogora fell high up on Lapsus, then on Tuesday after another rest day, she pulled off the first female of this mammoth 9a+ linkup. Yesterday it was time for the photoshoot, but between one take and next she snuck in repeats of Noi, the historic 8b+ put up by Andrea Gallo, and Cobra Reale, the 8c+/9a freed by Stefano Ghisolfi. The only route that she failed to send before her return to Trento was the 8c+ Calibro 38, freed by Matteo Gambaro in 2012.