Kids With Guns, new big wall on Amuri Tepui in Venezuela
The international team of climbers chose "an audacious line up the center of the steepest section of wall" and spent a total of 12 days on the steep face which overhangs circa 100m in its 500m height. They returned down only once to fetch more water and used two porter-ledge camps, the second being placed just below half height, after which they fixed a line. Apart from a mere 2 bolts on the pitches and 4 bolts for belays and hauling, all the rest of the route was protected with trad gear and they encounted difficulties up to 5.13a, A3, E6 6c. Writing on his blog, Ullrich stated "The route transpired to provide 21 pitches of climbing, the overwhelming majority of which were on immaculate and wildly steep Quartz-arenite..."
The four travelled to Venezuela after having been inspired by the British couple John and Anne Arran who in 2008 established Amurita during a remarkable seven-day, total-commitment ascent. Kids with Guns takes a line circa 600m to the right of Amurita and while it was being established the climbers were joined by a strong Belgian team comprised of Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva O’driscoll, Stephane Hanssens and Gean-Louis Wertz who made rapid progress on a line to their left.
After the climb Ullrich commented "The entire route would almost uncertainly go free with some protectable but unlikely roof sections providing wild cruxes. We were happy to have established a new line on the steepest wall any of us have ever seen, in such good company and in a unique beautiful part of the world."
Check out the full trip report and more photos on www.ullrichdesigns.co.uk
Thanks to: Prana, Maetolius evolve.
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Amurita big wall climbing in Venezuela by John & Anne Arran | |
News Venezuela | |
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www.ullrichdesigns.co.uk |