Gole di Gorroppu, Sardinia: new route climbed by Corrado Pibiri and Fabio Erriu

Cagliari-based climbers Corrado Pibiri and Fabio Erriu have established an extremely long new route in the Gole di Gorroppu, not far from the face which hosts the famous climb Hotel Supramonte . The new route takes a line up the opposite side of the canyon, on a hitherto unclimbed face called Costas Mammaluccas, located shortly before the section of the canyon which hosts a series of small lakes.

The 470m route offers ten pitches and climbs beautiful grey limestone slabs, with difficulties in the region of 5b and 5c and with one short 6a section. This plaisir climbing will certainly prove highly popular, thanks also to the breathtaking views over the gorge and onto the West Face of Punta Cocuttos.

To get to the face there are two alternative approaches. Either start, as for all other Gorroppu routes, from Dorgali and the Ponte di Sa Barva bridge and continue past Hotel Supramonte for a further 15 minutes within the canyon (1.30 hours). However, the first ascentionists recommend approaching from the wild Urzulei, from the sheepfold of Sedda Ar Baccas. Park the car here and follow the path Sa Giuntura where the rivers Titione, Orbisi, Flumineddu meet (about 1 hour). From here continue along the riverbed towards the Gole di Gorropu, on the left bank and with the help of steel cables, past first pool. Continue along the river bed and just before reaching a second pool (Lake Sifone) scramble steeply up to the left to reach, after circa 100m on the right, a col. With the help of the cable easily reach this col. Now on the Sa Forada scree slope, descend quickly to the base of the Su Gorropu Gorge and the start of the route (1 hour). An abseil is possible by the recommended descent is the one on the topo.
A final word of advice: the route faces south, take care if it's sunny!

Lughe 'e vida mia - Gole di Gorroppu
1st ascent Corrado Pibiri and Fabio Erriu, May 2013
Length: 475m (10 pitches, max length of the individual pitches: 50m)
Completely bolt protected
Gear: 11 quickdraws
Grade: 6a (maximum, one section, obligatory)