Corsica new climb by Arnaud Petit and Jeff Arnoldi

Le non-sens et la joie breaches "beautifully steep orange granite" and was established ground-up, using mainly trad gear and only 14 bolts along the pitches. Difficulties are estimated at 8a (7b oblig) and although the route has not been freed yet, the first redpoint is surely only a matter of time: the crux pitch is described as "World class. Hard face then classic roof climbing on gear. Exhilarating finish."

Petit's love affair with the Mediterranean island goes back a long way and the latest climb is another excellent addition to his long list of class climbs that includes the likes of Octogénèse (8a+, 300m, François & Arnaud Petit, Bavella, 1991), Jeef (7b, 400m François & Arnaud Petit, Bavella, 1992) and Delicatessen (8b, 120m, Arnaud Petit, Stéphane Husson, Bavella, 1992).

The Frenchman told Planetmountain "Corsica for me represents a wild place with lots of world class granite walls, some of them huge, some very small, but always incredible because of wind-shaped tafoni features. I was lucky to discover this island as a young child and later establish my first multi-pitches there, and even today I still find some great projects there. I also really appreciate the evolution of the spirit of the climbers there, who try to establish new routes with a minimum of bolts. Yes, I'll be back soon!"

Thanks to: Petzl, La Sportiva, Patagonia and Totemcams


TOPO: Le non-sens et la joie, Corsica


17/06/2013 - Jeef, the route and the beauty of climbing
In praise of climbing and nature's beauty. This is Jeef, the route first ascended in 1992 by the French brothers François & Arnaud Petit on Punta U Corbu in Bavella (Corsica). A small masterpiece, examined by Maurizio Oviglia and Arnaud Petit.