Climbing in Dolomites Höhlensteintal: the five best crags for Dolorock 2021

It's almost time for the 2021 edition of the Dolorock Climbing Festival, the international climbing meeting which, for the eighth time, takes place between Sesto and Höhlensteintal/Val di Landro in the Dolomites. To comply with anti-COVID-19 regulations the organisers have devised an alternative version of the event, moving it from its traditional May weekend to the entire month of July. Participants can therefore choose when they want to climb, and meeting formula remains unchanged, after registering online at www.dolorock.com. The Höhlensteintal is littered with crags, and five of the very best are now presented by the local mountain guide Daniel Rogger of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Mountaineering School.

Landro Classic
Beginners and experts will find plenty to do at the "oldest" crag in the Landro Valley, with difficulties ranging from 4b to 8b. The short approach and huge choice of routes makes this a highly popular cliff. Climbing is possible even in light rain in the Hexentanz sector.
Recommended routes: Hakenflut 5a, Die longweilige 6a, Kinderspiel 6a+, Die Köchetour 6c, Hexentanz 6c (hard)

Scheeweg / Franks
The short approach and vast number of difficult climbs make this crag the favorite training ground for the locals. Thanks to the large overhangs you can climb here even on rainy days. Perfect conditions can be found even in the height of summer, especially in the afternoon and in the evening.
Recommended routes: Colombo 7a, Frühlingserwachen 7b, Stromausfall 7c, Softpresse 7c+, Minigolf 8b

Stube and Balkonien
These two crags are located next to each other, in a splendid position above the turquoise Lake Landro. The rock varies from vertical face climbing to steep overhangs and offers all climbing styles, with Stube now being one of the most popular top end crags in the area. If it's cold it's possible to climb in the sun until the early afternoon. On hot days, however, these two crags should only be visited in the late afternoon.
Recommended routes: Joe fa afing 7c+, Dolomitenmann 8a, Landro airways 8a, Regentanz 8b, Hangover 8b+

Landro caves
As the name implies, this crag is characterised by two huge caves. The climbing ranges from dead vertical to extremely overhanging and the difficulties range from 5c to 8 +. The quality of the rock is excellent, especially in the left sectors. On hot days it is possible to climb in the shade until 2pm, usually in optimal conditions!
Recommended routes: Spongebob 6b, Bankl druckn 6c, Steil ist geil 7b+, Dr Best 7c, Miss universum 8a+

Militare Alpini Crag
As the name suggests, this crag was developed by the Italian alpine military corps to train its troop. The crag is ideal, especially for beginners, and the slabs and vertical faces are extremely well bolted, providing beautiful and interesting climbing. This area is also ideal for families with children.
Recommended routes: Lupo Alberto 5b, Willkommen bei 5b 5b, Alza il gomito 5c, Boreal 6a+, Salviamocci 6b

by Daniel Rogger

THE CRAGS
1. Landro
2. Landro Höhlen
3. Dürensee / Lago di Landro
4. Balkonien
5. Geierwand
6. Rienztal
8. Franchi
9. Militärklettergarten
10. Stube

For further information: www.dolorock.com

Dolorock Climbing Festival 
Organised since 2013 by Gamatzn, the South Tyrolean climbing club that brings together climbers and mountaineers of Val Pusteria, Dolorock aims to use climbing to overcome linguistic, cultural and geographical barriers. The meeting is designed welcome diversity, promote tolerance and nurture critical discussions on issues related to climbing and mountaineering