Bereziartu and Otegui free Super Weissmuller 8a/8a+ on Petit Pic De Ansabere

A fortnight ago Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegui made the first free ascent of Super Weissmuller 8a/8a+ on the SW Face of Petit Pic De Ansabere (France). The eight pitch route had been first ascended from the ground up by the Spaniards Mikel Zabalza and Unai Mendia three years ago with one point of aid.

Bereziartu and Otegui attempted to on-sight the line but failed on the crux pitch, which they sent second go and freed at 8a/8a+. Although the route has some small bolts and pegs almost all pitches need to be equipped with trad gear, with fairly long run-outs at times.

The limestone Petit Pic De Ansabere is located in the Pyrenees close to the French - Spanish border. According to Bereziartu it is well worth a visit: the area is wild and alpine, and the wall is reached after a circa 2 hour walk in the beautiful Cirque of Lescun.


Super Weissmuller - Petit Pic De Ansabere (France)
First ascent: Mikel Zabalza and Unai Mendia 2004
F.f.a.: Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegui 06/2007
Grade: 6b+, 6c, 7b+, 8a/+, 7b, 6c+, 6c, V+
Length: 300m
Protection: Take full set of trad gear.
Notes: The rock is friable at times, with fairly long run-outs