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Sfasciacarrozze, new ice and mixed climb in the Brenta Dolomites

On 27/12/2012 Massimo Faletti, Mauro Mabboni, Martino Peterlongo and Andrea Speziali completed Sfasciacarrozze (WI 6+, M7, 210m), a new ice and mixed climb established over three days on Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites.

Planetmountain

January 2013

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Via Sfasciacarrozze (WI 6+, M7, 210m, Massimo Faletti, Mauro Mabboni, Martino Peterlongo and Andrea Speziali) Castello di Vallesinella, Brenta Dolomites.

archivio Massimo Faletti

"Demanding. Yes, this is decidedly demanding." These are the words of Italian Mountain Guide Massimo Faletti who after having sent us the report about his (decidedly difficult) mixed climb Brothers on Cima Grostè, now checks in with another ice and mixed climb established in the Brenta Dolomites, the route Sfasciacarrozze on Castello di Vallesinella.

The new route was established over a three day period in December, always ground-up, together with Mauro Mabboni, Martino Peterlongo and Andrea Speziali and encounters difficulties up to WI 6+ and M7, with precarious pro. The route was completed on 27 December 2012 and during the descent some gear was added to render the climb a somewhat safer proposition and to clearly indicate the line of ascent. On pitch four Sfasciacarrozze crosses the sports climb put up by Piergiorgio Vidi and shares the belay chain and subsequent bolt. It is, according to Faletti "a great journey, highly selective. Far harder than all my other routes!"

TOPO: Sfasciacarrozze, Brenta Dolomites

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