Presolana: Natali and Panseri pull off important first winter ascent in Bergamasque Prealps

Four years after their last winter escapade up the North Face of Presolana, at the end of December 2016 the Italian mountaineers Daniele Natali and Maurizio Panseri managed to complete another important first winter ascent up this impressive peak located high in the Bergamasque Prealps.

Natali and Panseri teamed up on 29 and 30 December to repeat 12 anni di Albani, a line that breaches the reddish overhangs on the left-hand side of the overhanging north face. 540m high, this runs parallel with Grande Grimpe (E. Spiranelli, G. Rota, F. Nembrini, August 1989 – first winter ascent: E. Spiranelli, G. Angeloni, winter 2000) crosses the old aid route Via dei Möch (29 and 30 September 1967, Placido Piantoni. Carlo Nembrini, B. Pezzini, A. Fantoni) on pitch 3 and continues through steep ground before finishing up the final three pitches of Via dei Möch.

Natali and Panseri made the first summer repeat of 12 anni di Albani in 2000, finding much loose rock in the lower section. Ensuing repeats cleaned the route however and when the duo returned to repeat the line again last summer, they encountered good rock and max difficulties up to 7b+, with obligatory 6c.

Their first winter attempt had been foiled in 2014 due to the mountain being in prohibitive conditions, but the seed was obviously sown. In late December Panseri made a recce to the "dark side" of the Regina, the "queen" as the mountain is fondly known by local Bergamo alpinists, and noticed that it had come into perfect condition. Three days later the duo returned and, climbing for two full days, successfully made the route’s first winter ascent. This is now their fifth first winter ascent on this mountain which, despite being realtively unknown beyond the Italian borders, offers outstanding climbing in an ambient which is as demanding as it is beautiful.

INFO
Presolana Occidentale - North Face
Via 12 anni di Albani
First ascent: R. Piantoni, D. Berlinghieri, S. Magri, 1999
First winter ascent: D. Natali, M. Panseri, 29 and 30/12/2016
Length: 540 m. (14L)
Grade: 7b+ (6c obligatory)/SR3/IV

FIRST WINTER ASCENTS BY NATALI AND PANSERI ON PRESOLANA OCCIDENTALE
Via Placido (1978) - Daniele Natali, Maurizio Panseri, 14 - 15 March 2009
Via Direttissima (1972) - Daniele Natali, Maurizio Panseri, Alessandro Ceribelli, 2 - 3 March 2012
Via Paco(1992) - Daniele Natali, Tito Arosio, 16 March 2012
Via Bosio(1962) - Maurizio Panseri, Fulvio Zanetti, 17 March 2012
Via 12 anni d'Albani (1999) - Daniele Natali, Maurizio Panseri, 29 - 30 December 2016

Further info: vertical-orme.blogspot.it