Nanga Parbat, Blanc, Kuntner and Andres summit

On 30 June Abele Blanc, Christian Kuntner and Stefan Andres reached the summit of Nanga Parbat (8125m).

Manuel Lugli

July 2001

On 30 June the Italians Abele Blanc, Christian Kuntner and Stefan Andres successfully reached the summit of Nanga Parbat (8125m). Forced to turn back from the line started last year by the Messner brothers, they in turn opted for the Kinshofer route, reaching the summit around 15.00. The orginal line proved to be extremely difficult both technically and logistically, rendering establishing Camp 1 extremely hard work.

Eleven consecutive days of rain and snow, but above all an enormous opening crevasse made the crux in the upper section of the route impassable, dashing all hopes of the summit via this route. Thus the decision to climb the Kinshofer, or Normal route, which, with its famous “Kinshofer wall”, is nevertheless a serious undertaking.

They set out on 29 June, reached the summit a day later and returnded to Base Camp on 2 July. Stefan Andres was forced to bivouac at 7400m during the descent, but suffered no frostbite.

The three will now return to Islamabad.

by Manuel Lugli

Information: Manuel Lugli
> www.focusworldexpeditions.com
> www.blancabele.com/
> K2 success for Italian/Brasilian trio (02/08/2000)

(Above: Nanga Parbat - Photo Nives Meroi - Romano Benet)

Nanga Parbat (8125m)
Himalaya, Kashmir – Pakistan.

'Nanga' was first climbed on 3 July 1953 by the Austrian Hermann Buhl (member of the Austrian/German expedition led by Herrligkoffer). This was the third 8000m peak to be climbed and Buhl astounded the mountaineering world with his fantastic solo ascent.