Grossglockner: new route climbed by Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger

Between 28 and 30 September 2018, Austrian mountain guide Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger established a new climb up the SE Face of Großglockner, at 3798 meters the highest mountain in Austria. Called The Power of Love, the new is 750m long and breaches difficulties up to VII/A1.

Describing it as "the first modern alpine sports climb" on this mountain, Zlöbl explained "In order to meet modern safety standards, the belays are all bolted.Only a handful of bolts and pegs were placed on the 11 pitches. The rest was climbed clean and was protected with trad gear. The style of climbing is demanding, a competent alpinist will need a full set of wires and cams, as well as a 60m rope. The aim of those who repeat it will be, to free the short section we breached with the use of aid."

Power of Love is a serious undertaking and Zlöbl warned "Although the route leads through a very serious and extremely friable face, the rock is surprisingly easy to climb. Sophisticated route finding resulted in a climb that is rewarding for those who repeat it. However, extreme caution and prudence are required. Objective dangers, such as by falling rocks, are omnipresent and if there is melting snow or ice the route can be life-threatening! Good conditions are often found in late autumn, when the rock face is completely dry."

This is Zlöbl’s third new route on Grossglockner. In May this year he teamed up with Thomas Bubendorfer and Max Sparber to forge Das dritte Leben- The Third life - up the mountain’s South Face, while ten days ago he teamed up with Isidor Poppeller and Chris Gruber to complete Fascilides Direkt. This follows the famous Mayerlrampe and continues directly up a steep couloir where the Mayerlrampe traverses off left.


Link: www.mountainrevolution.at, Grivel