Gojung details, Mick Fowler interview

A fortnight ago we reported about the first ascent of Gojung (6310m) in the Kapthang range on the Nepal/Tibet border in the Himalaya by British alpinists Mick Fowler and Dave Turnbull. The two climbed a 1200m line up the central ice couloir on the west face over four days, then traveresed the summit ridge north to making the first ascent of a second, unnamed 6264m peak, before descending west to the upper reaches of the glacier from which they had started. 

Fowler stated that the climb "had exactly the criteria that attract me. There was wonderful, technically challenging climbing, it was objectively safe, with an unclimbed, eye catching line leading directly to a similarly unclimbed summit, and there was a different route of descent.  We were even able to add a subsidiary first ascent on the way down." He has now provided us with the following brief insight.


Mick, can you provide us with some route details?
We walked up from a BC at circa 4400m, bivoauced under the face at about 5000m and went for it from there. We had guessed perhaps three days and in the end it took us four, with  a total of 8 bivvies:  one under the face, three on the actual face, one on the summit ridge, two traversing the frontier ridge towards the descent and one on the glacier at the foot of the descent. The weather was fabulous on the way up, and not so fabulous on the frontier ridge traverse, so while the main technical difficulties were in the first third of the face, the hardest section was traversing the frontier ridge in bad weather. 

What about acclimatisation?
What about it? We climbed up to about 5,100m on terrain opposite the face and went hill walking with headaches for a couple of days. We spent 3 nights at 5,100m then descended to base camp at circa 4400m, spent a day there sorting gear and then went for it.

The mountain had been attempted in 2009 by a Spanish expedition. Did you choose the same line of ascent?
I don't know which line they planned to go for but I think most would agree there is only one obvious line from the west (Nepalese) side.

Gojung has also been called Mugu Chuli. 
The local yak herders refer to it as Gojung and it this is the name that should be used. Apparently it doesn't translate as anything.

Compared to many other ascents nowadays, yours is a refreshingly simply low-key affair...
Good. Complex affairs are bad. Climbing for personal pleasure is good I think. No pressures to take risks. Just good fun with good friends.

What feeling do you get on the summit? Has this changed over the years?
No. It hasn't changed. I feel elation, excitement, satisfaction...  and so many other emotions. The ascent that I have dreamed about for so long is achieved. Life is good!!