Dolomites Dulcis in fundo: first winter ascent on Civetta by Nicola Tondini, Lorenzo D'Addario
Not just Chimera Verticale, and not just W Mexico Cabrones, but also Dulcis in fundo. After the ascents of Titus Prinoth & Alex Walpoth and, Alessandro Baù, Thomas Gianola & Giovanni Zaccaria, Nicola Tondini and Lorenzo D'Addario also scored an important first winter ascent on the NW Face of Civetta, this time up Torre d'Alleghe on Dulcis in fundo. This rarely repeated climb was established on 4 September 1988 by local climbers Gigi Dal Pozzo and Nanni De Biasi with difficulties up to IX-.
Tondini and Lorenzo D'Addario, two XMountain mountain guides had never climbed the route before and set off on the 3rd of March at 5 am from Pian di Pezze. Climbing with two haulbags for all the gear and ice climbing equipment, they reached the end of the difficulties at 18:00. At 18.30 they summited and, having descended down the normal route, at 21.30 they returned to their car.
"It's a tough route.. In true good old Gigi dal Pozzo fashion" was the first comment of Tondini, who will provide further details in due course.
Nicola Tondini – XMountain Guide Alpine, thanks: Climbing Technology, Wild Climb, Dolomite 1897, Ferrino, Marmot Mountain Europe, Maxim Ropes
Lorenzo D'Addario - XMountain Guide Alpine, thanks: SCARPA, Skylotec, Vaude